Compost Has No Shelf Life if Dry

Q. I purchase ViraGrow compost a cubic yard at a time and bag it myself using black plastic contractor bags which I store in a location that gets some morning sun but afternoon shade. Does compost stored like that have a shelf life? I plan to gradually apply it around plants as time permits but it may take me most of the summer to finish the project.

Which brings up my second question. Is it ok to apply compost to plants all summer despite the heat? 

A. Yes, the Viragrow compost, any compost, does not have a shelf life. In fact, compost improves during the first six months after it has been made and finished. The process is called “curing”. After this it is the same for many months as long as it is dry. Wetting compost doesn’t really make it bad, it just washes some of the nutrients out of it. Leaches.

Notice the leachate coming from the compost. These are the nutrients leaching from the compost. Compost tea if you like.

As far as use of it during the summer months I would be a bit careful. Viragrow compost is very rich in nutrients. That is what makes it unique and separates it from other composts. Because it is rich in nutrients (fertilizer content) it is much like a fertilizer and can “burn” plants if applied during summer months if you are not careful. I would not apply it to vegetables, leaves of plants or flowers during the heat of the summer. It should be applied before this time or after. Then it is fine to apply to plants during cooler times of the year.

Fertilizer in 1 Cubic Yard of  Viragrow Compost

Did you know if you bought all the fertilizers found in Viragrow Compost it would cost $229.41! These are fertilizers not found in perlite, vermiculite, peatmoss, rice hulls and coconut coir!

Fertilizer contained in one cubic yard of Viragrow compost:

3.73 pounds quick release nitrogen = 17.6 pounds of 21-0-0                     $  22.34

7.2 pounds slow release nitrogen = 129 pounds of Milorganite                 $107.50

15.13 pounds P205 = 33.6 pounds of 0-45-0                                              $  45.40

1.5 pounds K20 = 2.5 pounds of 0–0–60                                                    $    8.50

7.1 pounds sulfur = 7.5 pounds of water-soluble sulfur                             $  16.12

16.59 pounds iron = 83 pounds of iron sulfate                                           $  24.55

1.25 ounces manganese =                                                                           $    5.00 trace elements

                                                                  Total fertilizer value                  $229.41

Fertilizer in perlite                                                                          $0

Fertilizer in vermiculite                                                                  $0

Fertilizer in peat moss                                                                    $0

Fertilizer in coir                                                                              $0

Fertilizer in rice hulls                                                                     $0

You can use Viragrow compost as a compost tea, using it as a fertilizer and for disease control, by spraying a “tea” solution on the leaves but again during cooler times of the year. If done, it must be diluted with water just like any compost tea, before spraying it on plant leaves during the spring and fall months. I would dilute it at least 1:1 with water before spraying it as a compost tea. By the way, compost tea does have a shelf life so use it quickly (24 hours) after you make it. The compost that remains after making compost tea is still a wonderful addition to soil to improve it. It just doesn’t contain as much fertilizer because it was flushed into the tea.

Compost’s Role in Quality Landscapes

Using composts as soil amendments in vegetable gardens has been a no-brainer in the past. We knew it contributed to soil organic matter content. Most vegetables benefited from high levels of soil organic matter so we had no problem adding it to vegetable beds.

            We were taught in school that productive agricultural soils generally contain from 2 to 5% organic matter; some required more than others depending on what was grown. In soils with adequate amounts of organic matter, additions were not needed. But that concept of “one size fits all” when it comes to organic amendments is being challenged and the challengers are winning.

A soil that is dark brown in color and "crumby"(like bread crumbs) is a good indicator that there is a good supply of organic matter present.

            We were told by scientists that landscape plants would not benefit from the addition of organic matter and that amending the soil at the time of planting was not necessary. Those of us working in arid and desert soils of the West and Southwest quietly challenged that generality and continued to add organic matter like composts to our landscape soils. We could see the benefit.

            Research during the past 20 years has challenged some of our previous thinking.  In many of our soils, regular additions of organic matter and its decomposition to humus is a necessary step in maintaining a vibrant and “healthy” soil and productive plants. Terms like soil health, soil food webs and soil ecology have become mainstream now.

            Composting is the process used to convert organic matter into humus and employs many of the same microorganisms that perform the same function in soil. The concepts are very similar. The major difference is that composting provides a greater degree of control over organic matter breakdown than if it were left to an unregulated soil environment.

Steam coming from a compost pile is a good indicator it is not yet finished composting.

            Fungal and bacterial colonies, earthworms and soil inhabiting insects feed on organic matter. Microbial slimes and gums are produced when organic matter is converted to humus. These byproducts of composting and organic matter breakdown help cement soil particles together.

            This altered soil structure is filled with voids that permit the entry, percolation and exchange of water and gases. Improved soil structure or “tilth” is a major benefit from the breakdown of organic matter or the addition of compost.

            Byproducts from the decomposition of organic matter and the feeding by soil organisms improve the soil further by altering the soil chemistry and providing organic compounds that stabilize nutrients and assist in chemical reactions necessary for plant survival.

            When organic matter declines, humus levels decline as well. “Soil health” declines and with it landscape plants suffer. The rate of decline depends on many things including the type of soil, climate, management, nature of the organic matter and other factors.

Heavenly bamboo mulched with rock, soil organic matter declining and with it the level of humus in the soil. These naturally occurring chemical "chelates" help provide iron and keep plants like this from developing an iron shortage and yellowing leaves.

            If deteriorating soil health is not caught soon enough, large volumes of quality soil organic amendments, such as compost, are needed in a process called soil remediation to bring the soil “back from the dead”.

            With these additions we see the improvement in soil health reflected in our landscape plants; more vigorous and healthier growth, more tolerance to environmental extremes, small amounts of fertilizer achieve greater results, less water is needed and plants experience fewer pest problems.

            As managers of plants we must also manage our soils. The percentage of organic matter in a soil, and thus its humus content, is terribly important. Most soil test results provide the soil organic matter content.

Viragrow Compost is dark brown and it all looks the same, indicators of highly decomposed organic matter.

            But, is knowing the organic content of our soils enough? To know how much and when to put it back, it is best to know how fast it disappears. Knowing the rate of organic matter decomposition is a powerful management and budgeting tool. With this type of knowledge we understand how often and how much compost to budget for to maintain soil and plant health.

             Similar to the composting process, the most powerful external factors controlling the conversion of soil organic matter into humus and its eventual disappearance are moisture and temperature. If soils are kept moist, accumulated soil temperature is the driving force in the loss of soil organic matter. At higher temperatures, soils decompose organic matter faster than in cooler soils. Hot, moist soils need additions of organic matter more often than cool, moist soils.

            Organic matter releases the nutrients it contains for plant uptake only when it decomposes. By decomposing, plants benefit as well as the macro and microorganisms that live in the soil. Decomposing organic matter also helps support beneficial soil bacteria, fungi and earthworm populations. The decomposition process of organic matter contributes to the breakdown of soil minerals which in turn further release the native plant nutrients they contain.

Persimmon leaves the season after applications of high quality compost.

            In ways not well understood yet by scientists, the addition of composts to soils and plants and their breakdown impact plant health for the better. These impacts can be direct or indirect. Soils deficient in adequate levels of soil organic matter contribute to plant health by improving plant vigor, nutrient availability and uptake. This in turn improves plant tolerance to environmental stresses such as heat, drought, disease, mechanical damage and insect pests.

            There are now dozens of reports on the suppression of some very common diseases in many horticultural crops through applications of composts and compost teas. Numerous studies in greenhouses have demonstrated the suppression of common plant diseases found or transmitted in moist soils such as damping-off, root rots and vascular wilts. Disease suppression has also been demonstrated on field crops.

            Composts and products formulated from humus have been used by landscape and turfgrass professionals for 70 years.  However, with the advent of inexpensive nutrient rich chemical and synthetic fertilizers 60 years ago the use of organics such as manures and composts as fertilizers has nearly disappeared. It could be argued that with this disappearance we saw a general increase in disease incidence and the pronounced use of pesticides to control these diseases.

            More recent research has demonstrated the potential for using sources of organic matter such as composts and organic topdressings in the management of high quality turfgrass.  Several turfgrass diseases such as Fusarium patch, red thread, damping off, brown patch, dollar spot and snow mold have been suppressed by topdressings of compost.

There is solid research that points to the possibility of controlling turf diseases like summer patch by applying composts.

            It has been further demonstrated that these suppressive effects were generally from the biological activity of the organic amendments, not just because of improvements in the chemical and physical properties of the soil. The disease suppressive effects of organic amendments generally increased with increasing rates of application and were not as pronounced when sterile compost was used.

            All composts are not the same. Choice of feedstocks and how compost is managed impacts compost quality. This in turn is reflected in landscape response. Producing humus from organic matter takes valuable time and resources. Composts must be monitored and submitted to test for nutrient content and biological activity. Selecting the appropriate compost is critical in achieving soil improvement and improving plant health.

Bob Morris, Consultant for Viragrow, Inc.

Viragrow Delivers!

What do Universities Think of Compost with Biosolids?

Viragrow supplies one compost that contain 15% or less composted biosolids and a more expensive compost without any composted biosolids. Biosolids are being used more and more in municipal composts as a way of recycling waste rather than burying it in landfills.

Currently all of our residential waste including nutrient rich biosolids is dumped into our southern Nevada landfills.

Burying biosolids in landfills is a "source pollutant" to our environment and contributes to global warming through release of methane gas to our atmosphere. Using biosolids in an environmentally friendly way eliminates point source pollution in our landfills and reduces our human contribution to global warming.

Viragrow compost containing 15% biosolids.

At Viragrow we encourage our customers to consider using compost containing biosolids. Selecting composts containing biosolids makes you a proactive member of our recycling community. Compost containing biosolids is less expensive than biosolid-free compost and still carries all of the benefits of manure-based composts. All composts supplied by Viragrow meet EPA's Class A requirements and stringent EPA standards for E. coli levels and heavy metal content.

See what just a few of the Universities say about the use of Class A biosolids in agriculture.

Michigan State University

The use of high quality biosolids, coupled with proper management, should safeguard the consumer from contaminated crops and minimize any potential adverse effect on the environment.

Utilizing Biosolids on Agricultural Land, December, 2001.

https://www.msu.edu/~warncke/E2781%20Utilizing%20Biosolids%20on%20Agricultural%20Land.pdf

University of Florida

The use of manure and municipal biosolids as crop fertilizer is both safe and effective when properly administered.

Food Safety on the Farm: Good Agricultural Practices and Good Handling Practices—Manure and Municipal Biosolids, Reviewed Feb 2013.

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fs150

Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University

Based on more than 25 years of research on land application of biosolids and an even longer record of beneficial use in the United States, the preponderance of scientific evidence indicates that land applying biosolids of the quality currently generated according to the regulations established by the U.S. EPA and the Commonwealth of Virginia will not result in significant detrimental health or environmental impact.

Agricultural Land Application of Biosolids in Virginia: Risks and Concerns. 2009.

http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/452/452-304/452-304_pdf.pdf

Colorado State University

Land application of biosolids for beneficial use poses no health or environmental threat if CDPHE and EPA guidelines for trace elements and pathogens are followed and proper soil management is practiced.

Biosolids Recycling. Updated January 2014.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/crops/00547.html

University of Arizona

Biosolids are not a significant health threat as long as they are treated, stored, handled, and applied to land following accepted guidelines and regulations.

University of Arizona. Biosolids Land Use in Arizona. Revised April, 2011.

http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/consumer/az1426.pdf 

Viragrow Delivers!

Palm Tree Food Formulated for Palms and Nothing Else!

Treat your palms special! Palm Tree Food gives palms many of the nutrients that keep them from yellowing.

This is from the University of Arizona on growing palms in the desert:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021/az1021.html

Fertilization:
Palms look considerably better if they have adequate nutrients. Fertilizing established palms is one of the important ways to keeping them vigorous and attractive. In Arizona landscapes, nitrogen is the most commonly deficient nutrient; when it is lacking, older fronds turn pale green or yellow. Many palms in certain soils also suffer from potassium deficiency (yellowing of older leaves, including midrib). Some trees show Magnesium deficiencies (yellow band on older leaves, with central vein remaining green). In all cases preventative fertilization is best, since the discolored leaves don’t recover.

Lush green growth will result from using a “palm special” fertilizer that contains about 3 times as much nitrogen and potassium as phosphorous (the first and third numbers on the bag are approximately 3 times the middle number), plus Mg and micronutrients. Look for a product that supplies 10-20% N, 5%P, and 10-20% K (roughly equal to N), and also includes 1-3% Mg, .5% Mn , .5% Fe, and S, Zn, Cu, and B (micronutrients that are often lacking). Apply this product to palms after their first establishment summer, following directions on the label for the tree’s size. Spread the product under the canopy (avoiding the area next to the trunk) in mid spring and again in early summer. Water thoroughly to the 2 ft depth.

Arizona's Best Palm Tree Food contains potassium, sulfur, magnesium, iron, zinc and manganese specially formulated for palms. Use 1/2 lb of fertilizer for each inch of trunk diameter. Apply it to the basin and water it in. If you are using drip irrigation, apply the fertilizer 6 inches below the emitters with a shovel and water it in. 1/2 lb of fertilizer is equal to a little over one cup.

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How to Deep Root Fertilize Your Own Trees and Save Money

Save yourself some money. Deep root fertilize your own trees and shrubs.

Deep root fertilization of trees and shrubs involves applying a tree and shrub fertilizer in multiple locations under tree and shrub canopies. You can do this yourself with a good quality tree and shrub fertilizer and a shovel and knowing where to apply it and how deep.

It's not rocket science
You just have to remember a couple of things:

• apply the fertilizer no deeper than 12 inches
• apply the fertilizer where there is water

Desert Landscapes
Roots of trees and shrubs only grow where there is water. This means you're going to find the highest concentration of roots near drip emitters. The highest number of roots means more uptake of fertilizer by the plant. There is no need to apply fertilizer in dry areas between drip emitters.

Never apply fertilizer closer than 18 inches of the trunk of a tree or shrub.
In desert landscapes, make sure the fertilizer is applied within 18 inches of a drip emitter. The easiest way to figure this out is to run the irrigation system through a cycle and push a shovel into the soil to see if it is moist. Push the shovel into the soil the depth of a shovel, push the shovel forward and drop 1/4  cup of fertilizer in the hole and push it closed with your foot. Do two locations around each emitter. For small trees do this at one emitter.

Lawn Landscapes
Trees and shrubs growing in lawns makes it easier to apply fertilizers. The lawn grasses have improved the soil and it is constantly moist. Fertilizers can be applied anywhere in the lawn under the canopy of the trees and shrubs.

The fertilizer MUST be applied deep enough so it does not damage the lawn but not so deep that it bypasses tree and shrub roots. If the fertilizer is applied near the surface the lawn will be damaged at those spots by the high salt content of the fertilizer. (Fertilizers are salts).

Push the shovel 8 to 12 inches deep into the lawn. Push the shovel forward and drop 1/4 cup of fertilizer behind the shovel and into the hole. Close the hole by pushing the hole closed with your foot.

Space the fertilizer applications in concentric rings around the plant but no closer than 18 inches from the trunk or trunks. There should be a minimum of four application holes for small plants. Larger plants should have more, spaced about four feet apart under the canopy.

Iron sensitve plants? Dont forget to apply iron EDDHA chelate at the same time.

Viragrow Delivers!

Reports Coming in On Cactus Juice Fertilizer

I have to admit, we have never tried this product on cacti and succulents. Several people who bought our Cactus Juice fertilizer reported extremely good results with this product.

It is made my Grow More. Grow More products are very good products. But when we saw it was pushing its high calcium content as a big benefit, I have to admit, we were a bit skeptical because of our soils. Our soils in the Mojave Desert are FILLED with calcium. They are more than filled. They are LOADED! So why add calcium?

Golf course superintendents have added calcium to sand-based greens and tees for many years and saw results. Sand typcially does not supply nutrients. They are nearly inert. So it makes sense that grasses growing on sand greens might run out of calcium during warm and hot weather particularly when leaf clippings are removed and not recycled back into the soil. Greens and tees are bagged and the clippings taken off these surfaces to improve play for golfers.

Corky spot in Keifer pear.

We also see the importance of calcium in older orchards growing apples and pears. A physiological disorder develops in these fruits due to a lack of calcium even when they are growing in calcium laden soils! The reason? Calcium is relatively slow to dissolve into the soil/water that carries nutrients to the plants. Calcium is needed in very high levels by plants, particularly during fruit development.

This disorder is called bitter pit in apples and corky spot in pears. The same disorder is given different names because of the crop. The remedy? Spraying calcium liquid fertilizers on the fruit and leaves during fruit development.

It does not really surprise us that Cactus Juice fertilizer works but we had to wait and hear from you first.

Yes, it works and it is a very good product with solid reviews by growers here in the Mojave Desert.

By the way, we checked the price of it for Amazon Prime members. We compare VERY favorably.

Viragrow Delivers!

Soils Clean and Capture Water

Soil performs physical, biological and chemical cleaning of water

March 20, 2015—In celebration of the International Year of Soil 2015 (IYS), the Soil Science Society of America (SSSA) is coordinating a series of activities throughout to educate the public about the importance of soil. April’s theme is “Soils Clean and Capture Water.” According to IYS monthly leader Gary Pierzynski, “soil is a great water purifier. There are three ways that soil cleans water: physical, chemical and biological.” Here are some facts from Pierzynski, a soil science professor at Kansas State University. Physical: the particles of soil act like a filter. The ideal soil has a distribution of pore sizes so it can filter water, while also allowing the water to pass through the soil. Chemical: soil particles have a negative charge! That means that positive ions like calcium, magnesium and potassium can all be removed from passing water and retained by the soil. This is good, because each of these ions is a nutrient for plants! Some contaminants can be removed by this mechanism as well. Biological: soil is the largest bioreactor on the planet. Within the soil, bacteria and fungi transform and decompose certain chemicals. Soil microbes can change organic forms of nitrogen into ammonium ions—and even into nitrogen gas. They can also decompose some organic pollutants! As part of their celebration of IYS, SSSA is developing a series of twelve 2-minute educational videos. April’s Soils Clean and Capture Water video can be viewed at www.soils.org/iys/monthly-videos. Educational materials can be viewed at www.soils.org/iys by clicking on the April tab. Follow SSSA on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/SSSA.soils, Twitter at SSSA_Soils. SSSA also has a blog, Soils Matter, at http://soilsmatter.wordpress.com/. Additional soils information is on www.soils.org/discover-soils, for teachers at www.soils4teachers.org, and for students through 12th grade, www.soils4kids.org. The Soil Science Society of America (SSSA) is a progressive international scientific society that fosters the transfer of knowledge and practices to sustain global soils. Based in Madison, WI, and founded in 1936, SSSA is the professional home for 6,000+ members and 1,000+ certified professionals dedicated to advancing the field of soil science. The Society provides information about soils in relation to crop production, environmental quality, ecosystem sustainability, bioremediation, waste management, recycling, and wise land use.

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Options for Fertilizing Vegetables; Organic vs Conventional? Soil vs. Foliar?

Q. I was reading an article about foliar feeding plants,. It was saying to spray tomato plants with phosphorous. I read an organic article in which they use fish-seaweed extract. In your opinion which is better to use? I see that Viragrow sells these products. 

Viragrow's Kelp Meal

A. We want you to decide your options, not us. Yes, we carry Kelp Meal. It is a good product but we are not here to sell you an agenda. We sell both conventional and organic fertilizers - your choice. 

You want to give tomatoes a complete fertilizer at the time of planting. You can use organic sources or conventional fertilizers. The problem with organic sources at the time of planting is that they last so long in the soil. Conventional fertilizers that are quick release will have the nitrogen that stimulates the growth gone basically in 4 to 6 weeks. 

Viragrow's conventional preplant fertilizer
containing nitrogen and phosphorus.

Having the nitrogen disappear in 4 to 6 weeks is a big asset in the promotion of flowering. If this nitrogen is present in high concentrations, it delays flowering and promotes stem and leaf growth. In our climate, we want the tomatoes to get large enough to support fruit and then we want the plant to shift to flowering and fruit production. This is typically in a few weeks. 

For this reason I like conventional fertilizers at the time of planting and then following up with organic sources. Foliar feeding tomatoes with high phosphorus fertilizers is a great idea. You really want to keep that nitrogen away from the plants until they begin to set fruit. Once they begin to set fruit, then you want to feed them with small amounts of fertilizer monthly. 

Viragrow's Organic 
high nitrogen fertilizer

This is particularly true when you start harvesting fruits in June or July. This contradicts the idea to never fertilize vegetables during the heat of summer. I disagree 100%. This is the time that they need small amounts of fertilizer continuously. This fertilizer should be focused on the type of growth you desire. With leafy vegetables that are not expected to flower and produce fruits, high nitrogen fertilizers should be used. 

On vegetables which we expect to flower and fruit, we want to focus on high phosphorus fertilizers and keeping our nitrogen levels much lower. Regarding the third number on the fertilizer, potassium, this number should always be high. Potassium is very important in improving the general overall health of the plant and its improved growth during high temperatures.

At the time of planting I use a very old-fashioned fertilizer, 16-20-0. I also improve my soils with compost at this time. If my soils require a high percentage of compost because they are more difficult to dig and plant, I only add phosphorus as triple super phosphate or bone meal. I like bone meal a lot.

Viragrow's organic high
phosphorus fertilizer.

Regarding foliar feeding, you should have two types of fertilizers for foliar feeding. One should be a high nitrogen and low phosphorus fertilizer and the other should be a high phosphorus and low nitrogen fertilizer. If at all possible, these two fertilizers should both be at least moderate in the amount of potassium it contains. Potassium will not stimulate growth or flower production unless for some reason it is missing. In most gardens soils, it is not.

The high nitrogen fertilizer to be applied as a foliar spray should be used on leafy vegetables and flowering/fruiting vegetables in their very early stages of growth. This fertilizer should be avoided as a foliar spray when they reach about one half of their mature size. At this time you should switch your foliar spray to a high phosphorus spray. 

Foliar sprays should be applied once a month when temperatures are not hot. This can be in the early morning hours or evening hours. I prefer morning hours so that the leaves have a chance to dry before it gets dark. When using foliar sprays you should also be using a wetting agent. 

Viragrowis high
nitrogen water soluble (foliar)
fertilizer for leafy green vegetables.

People can and do use liquid detergents for dishes. I don't like to see people using these because of all the contaminants in these detergents. However, I realize they will continue to use them. It is best to use a wetting agent or surfactant that is specifically designed for foliar applications. There are several available. I really, really like the one I have found at Viragrow called EZ Wet. I like it for a variety of reasons but any of those will work.

One of Viragrow's water soluble high
phosphorus foliar fertilizers.

Bottom line:

• improve your garden soil each time you plant.
• Use a high phosphorus fertilizer mixed with the soil at the time of planting
• apply foliar fertilizers one month after planting
• use high nitrogen fertilizers for leafy green crops monthly
• use high phosphorus fertilizers for flowering and fruiting crops monthly
• never, never forget about potassium and either get it into the soil or apply it with the foliar sprays
• during the heat of the summer, reduce the amount of foliar fertilizer that you apply by half but still apply it monthly
• apply foliar fertilizers during early morning hours during the summer

Viragrow Delivers!

Vegetables, Sprouts and Herbs for Las Vegas and What Fertilizer to Use

Vegetables, Sprouts and Herbs for Las Vegas and What Fertilizer to Use

Do you have some extra seed? Ever consider growing sprouts with them instead of letting them go to waste? The plant parts we eat helps us to determine the type of fertilizer we need to apply. It is up to to you whether you apply fertilizer to the soil or spray it on the foliage. 

High phosphorus fertilizers promote flowering, fruiting, root development, nut and oil production. 

High nitrogen promotes leaf and stem production. 

You should have three fertilizers available for fertilizing just about everything: a high phosphorus fertilizer, high nitrogen fertilizer and a balanced 1:1:1 fertilizer. Granules for soil applications or soluble fertilizers for liquid applications to the plant. 

ALWAYS use a wetting agent like EZ Wet to inprove penetration of the nutrients inside the leaves instead of running off the plant and onto the soil. 

Vegetables eaten as sprouts (No fertilizer needed)

Adzuki

Alfalfa

Beetroot
Broccoli

Chick pea

Cress

Lentil

Mung Beans

Mustard

Onion

Peas

Red Clover

Red Radish

Soybean

Oats

Barley

Rye

Viragrow's 12-0-0 Blood meal
organic fertilizer

Amaranth

Sesame

Sunflower

Vegetable seed that is NOT Solanaceae family

Vegetables eaten as leafy greens (high nitrogen fertilizer)

Amaranth

Arugula

Beet greens

Bok choy

Broccoli Rabe

Brussels sprout

Cabbage

Celery

Ceylon spinach

Chard

Chicory

Chinese cabbage

Chrysanthemum leaves

Collard greens

Corn salad

Viragrow's 21-0-0 ammonium sulfate
conventional nitrogen fertilizer

Cress

Dandelion

Endive

Epazote

Fluted pumpkin

Garden Rocket

Plantain

Kale

Lamb's lettuce

Lettuce

Miner's Lettuce

Mizuna

Mustard

Napa cabbage

New Zealand Spinach

Orache

Pak choy

Pea leaves

Poke

Radicchio

Radish tops

Sea kale

Viragrow's 0-15-0 Bone meal
high phosphorus organic fertilizer

Sorrel

Spinach

Summer purslane

Sweet potato

Swiss chard

Turnip greens

Water spinach

Winter purslane

Yarrow

Vegetables eaten for botanical fruits (high phosphorus fertilizer)

Bell pepper

Bitter melon

Cucumber

Eggplant

Hot pepper

Pumpkin

Squash

Sweet corn

Sweet pepper

Tomatillo 

Tomato

West Indian gherkin

Zucchini

Viragrow's 0-45-0 triple super phosphate
high phosphorus conventional fertilizer

Vegetables eaten for edible flowers and flower buds (high phosphorus fertilizer)

Artichoke

Broccoli

 Cauliflower

Squash blossoms

Zucchini flowers

Vegetables eaten for edible pods (Legumes) (low nitrogen fertilizer)

American groundnut

Black-eyed pea

Chickpea

Common bean

Fava bean

Garbanzo

Green bean

Indian pea

Lentil

Lima Bean

Viragrow's high nitrogen - high phosphorus
preplant, conventional fertilizer

Mung bean

Okra

Pea

Peanut

Pigeon pea

Runner bean

Snap pea

Snow pea

Soybean

Tepary bean

Velvet bean

Winged bean 

Yardlong bean

Vegetables eaten for Bulb and stem (high nitrogen fertilizer)

Cardoon

Celeriac

Celery

Elephant Garlic

Fennel

Viragrow's high phosphorus water soluble
foliar fertilizer.

Garlic

Kohlrabi

Leek

Nopal

Onion

Spring Onion/Scallion

Shallot

Vegetables eaten for Root and tuberous (high phosphorus fertilizer)

Bamboo shoot

Beetroot

Burdock

Canna

Carrot

Cassava

Chinese artichoke

Daikon

Earthnut pea

Elephant Foot yam

Ginger

1:1:1 water soluble fertilizer for
general purpose

Hamburg parsley

Jerusalem artichoke

Jícama

Parsnip

Pignut

Potato

Prairie turnip

Radish

Horseradish

Rutabaga

Salsify

Scorzonera

Sweet Potato

Taro

Turnip

Water chestnut

Yam

Perennial vegetables and herbs (balanced 1:1:1 fertilizer)

Aloe, asparagus, artichokes, chicory, chives, Echinacea, dandelion, fennel, ginseng, Jerusalem artichokes, lavender, lemongrass, lovage, marjoram, mints, sorrel, rosemary, sage, tarragon, thyme, yarrow

Viragrow Delivers!

Greening Up Photinia With Iron and Manure

Q. I cleared the rock mulch and would like to know if adding manure to the mix would help the plant. I use Ironite on the plant several times a year.

A. Ironite is okay. Viragrow does not carry it. We carry Kerex, EDDHA and an organic iron spray. The best judge is whether it is working or not and keeps your plants in good color. Otherwise switch to Iron EDDHA.

5 lb. bag of Iron EDDHA from Viragrow
Stable across the entire pH range and alkalinity
Rates are typically in the tbs range per plant per year.

If photinia are in rock mulch the soil pH (alkalinity) will tend to stay above 8. Ironite uses sulfur to help keep the soil pH lower where the ironite is located. Every place else has not changed in pH.

The chemistry of Ironite is focused on is to lower the pH where the iron is applied and this should help the plant use the applied iron better. You should only have to apply the Ironite once in the spring.

The iron EDDHA relies on a different soil chemistry and it doesn’t concern itself with soil pH and changing it. It works at any soil pH, requires about 1 tsp or 1 tbs per plant and applied once a year in the spring.

Adding manure is going to help ….usually…. if the manure is “aged” and the salt content has been lowered through aging. I would NOT add fresh manure. The problem with all manures is the salt content.

You are always better off with compost rather than straight manure. Composts using animal manures usually have lower salt content because of the watering and leaching that goes on during composting. 

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