Cold Composting vs Hot Comosting

Cold Composts vs Hot Composts

We made up the term "cold composting" but that's what happens if the temperature in the composting pile doesn't reach 165F. Why are temperatures above 160F desired?

Hot composting produces heat. On a cold day this heat may appear as steam coming from the composting pile like a warm indoor swimming pool when the outside door is open. Yes, compost temps can reach 165F or more but it only takes a little bit of heat and water to make this "steam" come from a compost pile. Think of your warm breath on a cold winter day.

Nearly all the bad pathogens are killed if temperatures are high enough for a long enough time. Thats part of the composting process to make them safe to handle. Temperatures above 160F for 30 minutes or longer kill all the pathogens living in manures added to compost. Including human manure.

How are composts biologically active?

By turning the piles or mixing them. This mixing spreads the beneficial microbes throughout the compost. Only the center of a compost pile gets hot. The outer edges are cool. The outer edges are where the good pathogens hang out. By turning the compost pile or mixing it, the previously hot compost that is now sterile gets reinfected with good pathogens where they repopulate it very quickly if their environment is warm and moist.

A good compost will be "biologically active". A good compost will be dark brown, crumbly and rich when you touch or smell it. Sometimes you can smell nitrogen rich ammonia coming from a rich compost. The smell of ammonia means the compost is so rich that it can't hold anymore nitrogen and so it "leaks" out of the compost into the air as ammonia. 

Viragrow Compost Does Not Contain SLUDGE

Sludge is nasty. There is a world of difference between sludge and composted biosolids. Viragrow compost DOES contain composted biosolids.  Not our "Organic" compost, its Vegan, but the 166 or Viragrow compost does. But the composing process makes the municipal solid waste very clean. Let me explain.

Municipal Waste = Liquid Waste + Solid Waste

Sludge comes from any municipality. Technically what comes from a municipality is called municipal waste. It is about 99% water. This municipal waste is first removed of of any metal, plastic and glass. What remains separated into liquid waste and solid waste. Hence the term, municipal solid waste.

From Science Direct at https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1110062118301375

Liquid Waste

The liquid waste is either evaporated or leached in large open areas or cleaned up and returned to the original water source. In the case of Las Vegas, it is either returned to the Colorado River or (if its clean enough) it can be pumped into water wells where it mixes with underground well water in the aquifer. Yes, mixed with our potential drinking water. That's how clean it is.

Solid Waste

The solid waste can then be buried in landfills or turned into something useful like fertilizer or compost. Think of Milorganite. Turning it into something useful is a form of recycling. Burying it in a landfill gets rid of it and it is not recycled. Out of sight, out of mind.

Municipal Composting Facilities

If politicians pass laws that these landfills cannot contain recyclable solid waste (or the public is enlightened) then some or possibly all of the landfills will be closed to municipal solid waste. What to do with this waste? Recycle it.

Inland Empire composting facility in Southern California that turns waste into valuable compost like 166 Compost and Viragrow Compost.

In this composting facility the compost produces enough heat to sterilize the compost and remove all pathogenic fungi and bacteria. 

Advantages When Adding Potassium to the Compost

What needs to be added to a Viragrow soil mix right at the start?

None to improve plant nutrition....at the beginning. Maybe six months to a year later.

Look at all those nutrients washed away from this compost pile! You can use this plant nutrient packed water as a fertilizer and plant protector called compost tea.

The compost is rich in nutrients. Compost also lowers the alkalinity or soil pH into a better range for plants. As long as you add decomposing or decomposted amendments to the soil about once a year the soil pH will be good for plants. The alkalinity of the soil will begin to creep up after the compost begins to disappear in the second and third year. I'm talking about Viragrow compost.

One major element that could be bumped up a little in our compost is potassium. For you organic gardeners Greensand is usually recommended. Everyone knows bananas and banana peels are rich in potassium but did you know that wood ashes, avocado skins, fish emulsion, lots of fruit skins added to your compost or mixed up in your blender and poured on your compost or the soil near your plants will also work. Just chop this stuff up in very small pieces so they rot easier and release the potassium faster. They rot faster in warmer temperatures.

But did you know that some seaweed extracts are naturally high in potassium? Check the label. If the seaweed extraction is done using potassium hydroxide as part of its extraction the extract may be very high in potassium. But the label will tell you.

How to Eliminate Pests While They Sleep

December and January are the best times to go on the offensive and reduce pest problems for 2015. Most people wait until there is a problem. Get ahead of the curve and start now with a safe, organic spray that is easy to use and totally safe for you, your pets and the environment.

This will be the most important spray you can apply for the coming season and we will tell you what to use and how to do it. Horticultural oil sprays are the most overlooked sprays by homeowners but not by commercial producers. They know its value and schedule it to be done right after pruning.

Viragrow has insecticidal oils in small quantities and 2 1/2 gallon quantities
$95 
Makes 150 to 250 gallons of finished spray

Ultrafine oil is a highly refined insecticidal oil used primarily for controlling overwintering insects and mites. Oil applications “blanket” insect pests and smother them as well as disrupt important membranes. Ultrafine oils are useful on a wide range of insect pests, particularly scale insects, whiteflies and spider mites. Ultrafine Oil is a primary component of any organic spray program for insect control during the fall, winter and spring months.

Apply Ultrafine Oil 2 to 3 times during late fall, winter and early spring when daytime temperatures are above 50° but less than 90°F. Spray pressure should be high enough to deliver tiny droplets to plants. Be sure to spray all limbs, branch collars, bud unions and any cracks and crevices where insects may overwinter. 

Horticultural oils are highly refined oils that are fluid enough to be applied with any type of sprayer; canister, backpack or hose end applicator. Usual rates for mixing are around 2 to 3 oz of oil for each gallon of mixed spray.

Mix the horticultural oil with water in the amounts specified on the label. Spray deciduous (no leaves) trees and shrubs with this water and oil mixture covering the trunks and major limbs. Concentrate your efforts close to the ground where they like to be protected from mulches and leaf debris.

Viragrow Delivers!

Apply Viragrow's Horticultural Oil 2-3 Times This Winter

Applying horticultural oil to your fruit trees and woody landscape plants is very important this winter if you want to reduce pests for next year. Make one application in December and then another in January. You can use a hose end applicator or pump sprayer for taller trees. Pick an unusually warm day without any wind to make an application.

Don't forget to give the bottom of the trunk where it enters the ground an extra squirt because those places and any weeds are where pests like to hide in the winter. Control the weeds, too!

This is a "summer" oil so it can be applied when leaves are out and up to temperatures about 85F.

Pests do not migrate. They survive on your landscape plants and fruit trees until next year when they lay more eggs and start the process all over again. This is your chance to suffocate them!

Insects controlled include:
Aphids, mites, whiteflies, leafhoppers, peach twig borer (wormy peaches), coddling moth (wormy apples), scale insects and many others!

Application:

• Pick a warm day with no wind.
• Use 3 to 4 oz of oil mixed together with 96 to 97 oz of water and mix thoroughly. Spray the trunks and large limbs of fruit trees and ornamental trees and shrubs from the base to as high as possible.
• To be effective the oil spray must come in contact with the overwintering pest.

Ultra Pure Dormant Oil, 2 1/2 gal.
$95
Makes 150 to 250 gallons of finished spray after mixing

 Contact us for smaller amounts than 2 1/2 gallon quantities.

Some outside reading about oils:
Washington State University
Colorado State University

Viragrow Delivers!

Do You Want to Plant in Winter?

You can plant any cold hardy tree, shrub or fruit tree during the winter (except palms) but don't forget the mulch! Surface mulches provide a blanket of temperature control and preserve soil moisture so that planting during this time will be successful. It is inexpensive insurance.

Surface mulch as a blanket on the soil surface, decomposing and improving the soil

Soil temperatures need to be at least 45° F for roots to grow and establish plants. Seldom do our soils get below this temperature after the first few inches below the surface.

Make sure you add an equal amount of Viragrow compost, Viragrow planting soil mix or bagged EZ Green compost to your backfill surrounding the roots of these trees and shrubs. Unlike some others, all of our soil mixes are full of nutrients so you don't need to add any extra fertilizer to the soil at the time of planting.

Viragrow compost

EZ Green composted chicken manure

Make sure the planting hole is deep enough to accommodate the roots of the plant. You do not need to dig deeper than this unless the soil is so hard it can not drain water freely. Dig the hole at least three times the diameter of the root system and mix our soil amendments with all of the soil before you put it back in the hole. It is always wise to have the hose running into the planting hole when you are putting back the soil around the plant roots. This helps to eliminate air pockets and helps the plant stand upright.

Nearly all plants will perform much better with 3 to 4 inches of organic surface mulch applied after planting. Use our Redwood mulch or Gorilla Hair for that exquisite finished look.

Viragrow Delivers!

Soil Mix to Use When Planting Mesquite

Q. I’m digging out an area to plant a Chilean Mesquite and the dirt is really terrible.  I’m going to dig about 6’ diameter, nice and wide, and to the depth of the rootball, like you said. I want to replace all the dirt in the hole with quality soil. Is there a mix from Viragrow that you can recommend for a Mesquite?

A. Let me add more information. I think you are ready for it.

1. Make sure the hole you dug will drain water. If you fill the hole with water it should drain in 24 hours. If you are only putting water in the bottom of the hole because you want to hurry, then put about two inches of water in the bottom of the hole TWICE.  

The first time watering, water will move to the dry surrounding soil fast so it will move quickly to fill these dry spaces. Let it. Then refill it and mark the level with a stick or nail. Something easy to see and find. That water level should move down, probably slowly but it should move. The water level should drop one or two inches in a few hours or faster. If it does, then drainage is not a problem.

You should not have to dig a hole deeper than the roots of the plants you are digging. UNLESS water does not drain from the hole. If you MUST dig the hole deeper, make sure to compact the soil below the tree before planting. You can compact the soil with water draining or mechanically at about 90% compaction or firm enough so that your footprints are not more than 1/2 inch deep when you walk across it.

            

2. It is best to use the same soil taken from the hole rather than buy new soil. But this soil should have rocks removed larger than a golf ball. Then mix compost with this soil. Use an equal volume of compost (its going to be "fluffly") with an equal volume of soil (it will be more compact). This will result in an organic content of your new soil of about 25 to 30% which will drop to about 15% in year 2 and about 7% in year 3 or 4. 

Trees and shrubs do best with organics in the soil of about 5%. The roots will establish in this soil quickly if the plant is staked to keep the roots from moving.

If you want to use a soil from Viragrow in the planting hole instead, then use their Garden Soil Mix straight and fill the hole with it. As you are filling the hole with this mix, collapse the edges of the hole into this mix so the surrounding soil is well mixed with the imported soil from Viragrow. This will avoid a boundary layer of two different soils (your soil vs garden soil) but this boundary should, instead, slowly mix with each other as you go from inside the hole to outside the hole. This mixing helps remove a strong boundary layer.

           
3. Viragrow recycled municipal waste carries a very high nutrient content in a slow release form in their 166 and Premium composts. The tree will not need additional fertilizer for maybe three years. With a mesquite tree you will control its growth with your frequency of applying water. Not the volume of applied water. 

When first establishing the tree, water it like any other tree. Water frequently so water gets 24 inches deep and then hold off with the next watering AT LEAST one day until you see new growth and then start watering less often. You want it to grow faster, give it water more often. You want it to grow slower, water less often. But always give it the same amount of water each time.

December Classes at Viragrow for Landscapers

December classes for Landscapers by Bob Morris at Viragrow:

• How to Prune Landscape Trees
• How and When to Fertilize Landscape Trees
• How to Prune Fruit Trees
• Control 2020 Landscape Pests With Winter Sprays!

All students receive certificates from Viragrow after successful completion of the class. Use them to build your customer base and secure work.

Be a Viragrow commercial customer and attend free!

Let us know you are coming at Info@Viragrow.com or ask us questions.

Iron Chelate EDDHA is In!

We were out of it for about a month but it is now back on our shelves. Viragrow is the ONLY place carrying it in Las Vegas. Prevents yellowing in fruit trees, ornamental trees, shrubs and groundcovers. We have it in 5 pound bags and 1 pound cannisters. Less expensive than on Amazon or any place we know about. One tablespoon per tree and lasts about 12 months long.

 5 lb bag $72.00

1 lb cannister $15.50















Its used to prevent this

and this

and this

Apply it when you see yellowing in plants is going on or use it before it happens if you have seen it there before.

• Raised beds
• Shrubs
• Ornamental trees
• Fruit trees

Put 2-3 tablespoons of this chelate powder in your fertilizer injector tank. Mix it in the fertilizer solution you use to fill the tank on your fertilizer injector and let it feed your plants along with your other ferilizers.

Watch this video to learn how to use it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3F6-BwcFp8

Stop in at Viragrow and buy it and look at our demonstration raised beds and see whats growing!

Improving Soil with Compost

Using Compost to Improve a Soil

Adding compost to a soil does two things; it changes the physical structure of the soil and adds plant nutrients to it as well. The question becomes, “Does your soil need it?” Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn’t. Learn to know if your soil needs compost or not before buying it.

This 2 inch layer of Viragrow compost will be dug into this soil about 6 to 8 inches deep. The soil will then be shaped into raised beds. It will last for about two years until more is added. Depending on the crop grown, fertilizer may or may not be needed for several months to a year.

Improving Soil Structure

Compost changes the physical structure of the soil. This can be a good thing when its needed or it can be unnecessary if its not. By adding compost to a soil it improves water drainage in soils that don’t drain water easily.

Soil drainage and aeration is improved because of the improved soil structure created by compost.

But, like a sponge it also holds water in a soil before it drains making it available for the plant to use. Mixing the right amount of compost into a soil can be tricky. You want the soil to drain water, but you also want it to hold water for plant roots.

At some point, when you find that balance between draining water and holding water, adding more compost to it is throwing your money down the drain…literally! Find the amount of compost to add and then stop! Add enough compost every year to maintain the ideal balance for the plants you are growing.

Plant Roots Must Breathe

Plant roots must “breathe” or they will suffocate and die. Adding more compost to a soil increases its “aeration” or the admission of “good” air full of oxygen into the soil and the releases of “bad” air from the soil. Some plants need more compost, or aeration, in the soil surrounding their roots than others. For instance, lawns and palms tolerate lower amounts of aeration in the soil while roses, flowering bedding plants, most vegetables and many ornamental trees and shrubs need more aeration.

Plugs or cores taken from a lawn improve drainage and root aeration which causes roots to grow deeper. This is mechanically doing what compost does naturally!

The amount of compost to add depends on which plants you are growing. But ALL plants tolerate aerated soils. Know the plants you are growing and add compost to soils when its needed.

Using Compost as a Fertilizer

Compost improves a soils structure for better drainage and it can add nutrients as well. The question becomes, “How much to add?’ The answer may surprise you. It depends.

A circle of rich compost such as Viragrow's can feed plants by releasing its plant nutrients. The compost remains in place to slowly improve the soil surface where feeder plant roots like to grow.

Some composts are “rich” in plant nutrients while others are not. Remember the old saying, “Garbage in, garbage out.” This is very true of compost. Compost can be very rich in plant nutrients when made from animal manures. Sometimes it can be so rich in nutrients that it must be applied carefully to avoid plant damage. Compost made only from plants is usually less “rich”. But both types of compost improve the soil physical structure which is enough to improve plant growth. Compost made from animal manure may have enough plant nutrients to stimulate plant growth for months! Plant leaf color and growth will tell you when plant nutrients are needed again. 

How to Fertilize with Viragrow Compost

Viragrow Composts are "Rich" Composts

Viragrow Composts...all three of them...are considered "rich composts". Thats not true of all composts. Viragrow compost is unique in that regard. They are full of plant nutrients.

• Viragrow Compost (aka, 166) 
• Viragrow Premium Compost 
• Viragrow "Organic" Compost (aka, Vegan)

The Viragrow Compost, for instance, contains about $140 of plant nutrients if you were to buy them seprately from the compost. That is, they contain a lot of nutrients because of how they are made and the ingredients used.

In the case of fruit trees, amending the soil around plant roots with Viragrow Compost at planting time may mean no additional fertilizer is needed for two years after planting!

Viragrow Compost (aka, 166) contains about $140 in plant nutrients in each cubic yard

Not all Composts are "Rich"

For instance, the Viragrow Compost contains about $140 of plant nutrients in each cubic yard if you were to buy the plant nutrients as fertilizers separately. Other composts may work well as a soil amendment but they will not add this amount of "fertilizer" to the soil. Plants respond to these plant nutrients by growing faster, larger and darker green.... full of nutrients.

Viragrow's "Organic" Compost (aka Vegan) is made without any animal products or by-products.

Compost is a Slow Release Fertilizer

The plant nutrients in compost are "slow release"... they are released slowly over time as the compost "dissolves" into the soil. Eventually these nutrients are exhausted, along with the compost, and more compost needs to be applied. It depends on the plants but more may need to be added once a year or less often. Mineral fertilizers may need to be added several times a year with other composts.

Water dissolves plant nutrients in the compost and makes these nutrients available to plants. We know it as "compost tea".

Adding Compost Does Not Change Soil Volume

Adding compost to a soil may make the soil volume larger for a short time but eventually the soil settles and returns to its normal volume. The soil becomes darker because of all the "organics" left behind in the soil. That's a good thing. The darkness is a healthy visual indicator that you are bringing "life" into the soil. A healthy soil means healthy plants.

All of the composts and soil mixes are tested in Viragrow's Garden area at our yard. These vegetables are not fertilized for about three months after they are started.

Different Plants Require Different Amounts of Compost 

It is important to "feed" plants with the right amount of nutrients so they are not over or under fed. Plant feeding has much to do with how deep their roots are and how quickly they produce what you want.

Underfeeding plants gives you small amounts of growth and production. Large amounts of compost may damage or overstimulate plants into "luxury consumption" where they may not be healthy and withstand harsh desert conditions.

Type of Plant          How Often Fertilizer   How Often Compost
Vegetables               Monthly                        Once
Lawns                     Every 6 to 8 weeks         Twice a year
Fruit Trees              Once or twice a year       Every two years
Landscape Trees     Once a year                    Every two years
   and Shrubs                           
Roses and               Four times a year           Twice a year
   Flowering Shrubs       

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Bedding Plants Yellowing and Dying

Another case of poor soil prep....we are in the desert, gotta do it!

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Bedding Plants Yellowing and Dying: Q. My newly installed Penta bedding plants are dying, and the leaves are turning yellow. They are getting plenty of water. Any ideas what ...

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: How to Increase Production in Raised Beds

Most people forget about adding compost every year. When you take, you gotta give!



Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: How to Increase Production in Raised Beds: Q. What can I do to increase the vegetable production in my raised beds? A. Add Compost Annually Improve the soil with a high-quality co...

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Bottle Trees and Leaf Drop

We have high quality compost and EDDHA chelate iron!



Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Bottle Trees and Leaf Drop: Q. I'm growing bottle trees together with mock orange and roses and these trees drop their leaves in the middle of summer. What can I do...

Perlite Available from Viragrow

Viragrow manufactures soil mixes by using two different composts made from waste products. In one of Viragrow's higher-end soil mixes perlite is added for a variety of reasons.

What are the advantages of Perlite in a soil mix?

• It is inert. It does not alter the chemistry of the soil mix when added.
• It adds aeration to the soil mix. It opens the cracks and crevices in a soil mix so that more air can enter it.
• It doesn't hold water or fertilizer. When rapid changes are needed in a soil mix, either chemical or structural, perlite helps make changes more rapid.
• It reduces the "bulk density" of a soil mix. In other words, the soil mix is lighter depending on how much and what grade (how coarse it is) of perlite is used.

Three grades of perlite; horticultural (#2, left), and #3 and #4, the largest.

Viragrow is selling all three grades in bags and cubic yard totes if you want to make your own soil mix or have some other use for it. 

How is perlite used in other applications?

Decreasing weight

Plant propagation

Rooftop gardening

Filtration

Lightweight mortar and concrete

Hydroponics

Postharvest storage of bulbs and corms

Source of silicon

Container soils

Interchangeable with vermiculite when retention of water and fertilizer is not wanted

Insulation

 Viragrow Delivers!

Perlite Available in Bulk at Viragrow

Viragrow makes the soil mixes and one of the ingredients it uses is perlite. Perlite is made from volcanic rock that is mined, milled and then heated to very high temperatures where it "pops" like popcorn. This expanded mineral is light in weight and has some interesting properties for soil mixes. One of these properties is it's very light weight and substitution for sand and a soil mix.

Perlite can be screened to accommodate several different grades or sizes. On the left is size #2 called horticultural grade and used in soil mixes. Other grades include #3 on the bottom right and #4 on the top right.

Perlite can be purchased in 1 1/2 and 3 cubic foot bags as well as in cubic yard totes.

How to Make and Use Compost Tea

Spraying compost tea will deliver plant nutrients to the plant to keep it healthy, promote growth and protect it from diseases by applying "antagonistic" microoganisms on the leave surface.

Compost tea can be made from Viragrow 166 Compost or our Organic Compost Here's how.

Soak Compost in Clean Water

Tap water is fine to use. Soak about two cups of Viragrow 166 Compost or Organic Compost in a five gallon container of water overnight. I like to use this compost tea ball because it keeps the fine particles out of the water. It's over 5 inches in diameter. We use enough compost in it to fill the bottom part and then soak.

Fine particles from the compost can plug a sprayer if you don't use some sort of filter. The holes in the tea ball seems to be small enough to filter the water for most sprayers. Alternatively you can use a cotton sock and put about two cups of compost in that and soak it in the water. The compost can still be used after it has released a bunch of plant nutrients and microoganisms. The cotton sock filters the compost even more than the tea ball does.

Dilute the Compost Tea

The level of nutrients in the water is too rich for most plants. These levels of nutrients should be diluted to make it safe to spray on plant leaves. Mix the same amount of clean water with your rich compost tea. This dilutes the nutrients enough to make it safe to spray on most plant leaves. If you want to do some checking to make sure, the salt level of the final spray should be between 3 -4 mmhos/cm or less than 2500 ppm. There is about 650 ppm for each mmho/com. Use a salt meter to check it. Salt meters like they use for salt water aquariums will work and they are not that expensive.

Link to a salinity meter

Mix in a Spray Adjuvant

Spray adjuvants help move past the resistant surface layer of leaves and inside the leaf. Plant nutrients move directly inside the leaf and dont have to be transported that circuitous path from roots, through stems and finally to the leaves. An excellent spray adjuvant for doing this is Viragrow's EZ Wet. Use one teaspoon per gallon of spray solution. Its made from Yucca extracts.

Spraying Compost Tea on Plant Leaves

A compost tea solution sprayed on plant leaves will fertilize and protect plants from many different diseases. Spray only enough to thoroughly  wet the leaves and no more. Repeat this spray to plant leaves every 30 days if you want to promote growth. Spray bottles will work if you have only a few plants to spray or use a compressed air sprayer.

Storage of Compost Tea

Compost tea will stay fresh for about two weeks in a refrigerator before the microorganisms begin to fail. After that it still works as a "fertilizer spray" but loses its potency for disease protection.

Applying Rock Phosphate to Our Soils

Q. I discovered from the internet that soft rock phosphate apparently does not work in alkaline soil. Does our Las Vegas soil contain any phosphate? I wonder if in long term it can be unlocked with some fungi or something like that. 

Viragrow does not carry rock phosphate. 0-3-0

A. Rock phosphate is considered an "organic" source of phosphorus even though there is nothing "organic" about it. It comes from minerals found in the soil. This points out some of the confusion regarding the word "organic" when it comes to gardening. Many composts have phosphorus in the "organic" form including composts made from biosolids.Who knows where these "rock phosphates" come from and what they have in them that may or may not make them acceptable for "organic" gardening.

A. There is some phosphorus in all soils. The question becomes whether there is enough phosphorus in the soil to support what we are trying to grow.

            When we grow vegetables and fruit trees in soils, these plants take minerals from the soil and store them in their leaves, flowers and fruit, stems and roots. We eat roots, stems, leaves and fruits of different plants. This is how we get the minerals in our body to support our health.

            When we grow plants and harvest them, we remove whatever minerals they removed from that soil. These minerals need to be replaced in the soil. We replace them by applying soil amendments like compost or fertilizers or both to these soils.

            Some minerals are needed in large amounts by plants while others are needed in small amounts. Phosphorus is needed in large amounts. When we intensively grow vegetables and fruit in a small area and harvest them, nutrients need to be put back in the soil.

            Phosphates found in fertilizers provide enough phosphorus for most plants. Adding compost to the soil supplies the microorganisms needed to help plants use this phosphorus. As long as the soil is healthy and vibrant by using amendments such as good quality compost, the type of phosphorus added will not make much difference.

Avoid Nematodes With This Simple Gardening Method

Container gardening uses a wide assortment of plastic, ceramic and wooden containers to hold the growing medium for plants. If the growing medium, or soil, becomes contaminated or exhausted of nutrients and is no longer productive, it is easier to  rectify the problem in the soil or, in some cases, simply dispose of it and start all over.

Tomatoes growing in 5 gallon nursery containers

Such is the case with nematodes.Once garden soils become contaminated with nematodes they are next to impossible to get rid of.

Nematodes damage on tomato roots

Soils in containers isolate problems from the garden. Soils can become contaminated because of chemicals, damaging nematodes and noxious weeds that are difficult to control. It is just plain easy to garden in containers.

Here are some simple guidelines to follow when growing plants in containers.

1. Pick a container that is large enough for the plant or plants.  5 gallon nursery containers are about the smallest container I would want to use in our climate. Containers should have holes at the bottom to allow water to drain. Our climate is hot and dry in the summer and there is not enough soil in small containers to hold the water needed by plants throughout the day. Secondly, soils in small containers heat up rapidly during the summer months.
2. Sanitize the inside of the container before planting. One of the best sanitizers is a 10% solution of Clorox in water. A 10% solution can be made with one cup of Clorox combined with 9 cups of water. Make sure the Clorox solution is in contact with the inside of the container for at least two minutes. Make sure the container thoroughly dries in the open air before planting. Another great disinfectant is our warm, dry air. A hair dryer on the hot setting does a pretty good job of sanitizing as well. More information on Clorox bleach
3. Use good quality planting soil. Plant health is directly related to the environment where it lives and how it is managed. Unless you are experienced with gardening and soil management, it is best to use a manufactured soil medium. Fill the container with the soil medium and water it thoroughly to settle the soil. Do not put gravel, rocks or shards of clay pots at the bottom of the container to improve drainage. They will not do that. Irrigate until water comes out of the holes at the bottom of the container. Remove or add soil until the top of the soil is about 1 inch below the top of the container.
4. Reduce the heat load of the containers. Nursery containers are usually black in color. In our intense sunlight these nursery containers can transfer a lot of heat to the soil inside the container. If these containers are in full sun all day long, the soil can get quite hot and damage the roots of plants growing in it. It is best to either change the color of the container to white by painting it or put the container inside an outer container so that it is shaded. If you choose to put a container inside another container, put a layer of pea gravel at the bottom of the outer container so the inner container is elevated above any standing water and does not get lodged in the outer one.

   

   Pepper growing in 6 gallon nursery container with mulch

Did you know that Viragrow sells a variety of soils for different purposes. These soils can be purchased in bulk or you can load them into your own bags. Viragrow makes the best soils in southern Nevada!

Fixing Yellow Citrus Leaves

Yellow leaves of citrus is a common problem in our desert environment and growing in our desert soils. The reasons for yellowing can be several.

Yellowing of citrus leaves is common when growing in desert soils.

Fertilizer deficiency. Sometimes yellowing is caused by a lack of a plant nutrient in the soil or the soil may be too harsh for the plant. We can either add nutrients to the soil or improve the soil and help the plant take up that nutrient. The usual nutrient problems for citrus are iron, manganese or magnesium. It's possible it could be all three. 

Apply iron. We carry the best iron chelate to apply to desert soils, EDDHA iron chelate. Apply this to the container soil or next two drip emitters and wash it into the soil lightly close to the roots.

EDDHA iron chelate, the best chelate for desert soils.

Apply magnesium. Sometimes a lack of magnesium can be the problem particularly in container soils. Try Sul Po Mag for correcting magnesium problems and also adding potassium to the soil.

Sul Po Mag fertilizer

Magnesium deficiency of citrus

If your container soils are old you should repot the citrus tree during warm weather. Gently remove the plant from the container and wash the roots and the container, removing the old container soil. Repot the tree with Viragrow Garden Soil Mix or container mix.

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Soil Science Society of America: Soils Support Urban Life

There are many ways urban residents can help their soil get healthy and work well

Jan. 20, 2015—The Soil Science Society of America (SSSA) is coordinating a series of activities throughout 2015 International Year of Soil (IYS) to educate the public about the importance of soil. February’s theme is “Soils Support Urban Life.” In the US, over 80% of the population lives in cities or suburbs. While the downtown areas of cities are covered with asphalt and concrete, there are still lawns, trees, gardens and parks. Under all of this “city space”, even under the concrete, is soil. Soil a complex mixture of minerals, water, air, and organic matter that performs many critical functions. SSSA recommends that urban dwellers consider rain gardens for their yards, and compost their appropriate food wastes. The SSSA website, Discover Soils, has a “Soils in the City” section  (https://www.soils.org/discover-soils/soils-in-the-city) with instructions for setting up community gardens. “Our main goal during International Year of Soils is to help educators and the general public understand this natural resource,” according to David Lindbo, SSSA’s IYS task force leader. “Soil provides for us and regulates our world. We need to take care of it in return…because soils sustain life.”  As part of their celebration of IYS, SSSA is developing a series of twelve 2-minute educational videos. They are working in conjunction with Jim Toomey, author of the environmental cartoon, Sherman’s Lagoon. February’s Soils Support Urban Living video can be viewed at www.soils.org/iys/monthly-videos. Education materials can be viewed atwww.soils.org/iys. Follow SSSA on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/SSSA.soils, Twitter at SSSA_Soils. SSSA also has a blog,Soils Matter, at http://soilsmatter.wordpress.com/. Additional soils information is on www.soils.org/discover-soils, for teachers at www.soils4teachers.org, and for students through 12th grade, www.soils4kids.org. The Soil Science Society of America (SSSA) is a progressive international scientific society that fosters the transfer of knowledge and practices to sustain global soils. Based in Madison, WI, and founded in 1936, SSSA is the professional home for 6,000+ members and 1,000+ certified professionals dedicated to advancing the field of soil science. The Society provides information about soils in relation to crop production, environmental quality, ecosystem sustainability, bioremediation, waste management, recycling, and wise land use.

How to Apply Iron Chelate to the Soil

Iron chlorosis of photinia

Some plants need iron when growing in our desert soils while others do not. Plants that need iron applied to the soil or leaves will develop yellowing. This yellowing of the leaves will frequently, but not always, leave the veins of the leaves a green color. In extreme cases, the leaves turn all yellow and will begin to scorch at the tips and edges.

If your plants were this color last year they need iron applied to the soil in the month of February. The best iron product to apply to the soil and correct this problem in the coming months is the iron chelate called EDDHA.

Iron chlorosis of bottlebrush

It is very simple to apply this chelate and a small amount is needed per plant. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with two or 3 gallons of water and add about 2 ounces of EDDHA chelate and mix. The chelate is safe to handle but you should still wear gloves and keep it off of your clothes.

Apply this mixture directly to the soil or mulch at the base of the plant and lightly water the area with a hose to move the chelate into the soil closer to the roots. You are done!





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