Vegetables, Sprouts and Herbs for Las Vegas and What Fertilizer to Use

Vegetables, Sprouts and Herbs for Las Vegas and What Fertilizer to Use

Do you have some extra seed? Ever consider growing sprouts with them instead of letting them go to waste? The plant parts we eat helps us to determine the type of fertilizer we need to apply. It is up to to you whether you apply fertilizer to the soil or spray it on the foliage. 

High phosphorus fertilizers promote flowering, fruiting, root development, nut and oil production. 

High nitrogen promotes leaf and stem production. 

You should have three fertilizers available for fertilizing just about everything: a high phosphorus fertilizer, high nitrogen fertilizer and a balanced 1:1:1 fertilizer. Granules for soil applications or soluble fertilizers for liquid applications to the plant. 

ALWAYS use a wetting agent like EZ Wet to inprove penetration of the nutrients inside the leaves instead of running off the plant and onto the soil. 

Vegetables eaten as sprouts (No fertilizer needed)

Adzuki

Alfalfa

Beetroot
Broccoli

Chick pea

Cress

Lentil

Mung Beans

Mustard

Onion

Peas

Red Clover

Red Radish

Soybean

Oats

Barley

Rye

Viragrow's 12-0-0 Blood meal
organic fertilizer

Amaranth

Sesame

Sunflower

Vegetable seed that is NOT Solanaceae family

Vegetables eaten as leafy greens (high nitrogen fertilizer)

Amaranth

Arugula

Beet greens

Bok choy

Broccoli Rabe

Brussels sprout

Cabbage

Celery

Ceylon spinach

Chard

Chicory

Chinese cabbage

Chrysanthemum leaves

Collard greens

Corn salad

Viragrow's 21-0-0 ammonium sulfate
conventional nitrogen fertilizer

Cress

Dandelion

Endive

Epazote

Fluted pumpkin

Garden Rocket

Plantain

Kale

Lamb's lettuce

Lettuce

Miner's Lettuce

Mizuna

Mustard

Napa cabbage

New Zealand Spinach

Orache

Pak choy

Pea leaves

Poke

Radicchio

Radish tops

Sea kale

Viragrow's 0-15-0 Bone meal
high phosphorus organic fertilizer

Sorrel

Spinach

Summer purslane

Sweet potato

Swiss chard

Turnip greens

Water spinach

Winter purslane

Yarrow

Vegetables eaten for botanical fruits (high phosphorus fertilizer)

Bell pepper

Bitter melon

Cucumber

Eggplant

Hot pepper

Pumpkin

Squash

Sweet corn

Sweet pepper

Tomatillo 

Tomato

West Indian gherkin

Zucchini

Viragrow's 0-45-0 triple super phosphate
high phosphorus conventional fertilizer

Vegetables eaten for edible flowers and flower buds (high phosphorus fertilizer)

Artichoke

Broccoli

 Cauliflower

Squash blossoms

Zucchini flowers

Vegetables eaten for edible pods (Legumes) (low nitrogen fertilizer)

American groundnut

Black-eyed pea

Chickpea

Common bean

Fava bean

Garbanzo

Green bean

Indian pea

Lentil

Lima Bean

Viragrow's high nitrogen - high phosphorus
preplant, conventional fertilizer

Mung bean

Okra

Pea

Peanut

Pigeon pea

Runner bean

Snap pea

Snow pea

Soybean

Tepary bean

Velvet bean

Winged bean 

Yardlong bean

Vegetables eaten for Bulb and stem (high nitrogen fertilizer)

Cardoon

Celeriac

Celery

Elephant Garlic

Fennel

Viragrow's high phosphorus water soluble
foliar fertilizer.

Garlic

Kohlrabi

Leek

Nopal

Onion

Spring Onion/Scallion

Shallot

Vegetables eaten for Root and tuberous (high phosphorus fertilizer)

Bamboo shoot

Beetroot

Burdock

Canna

Carrot

Cassava

Chinese artichoke

Daikon

Earthnut pea

Elephant Foot yam

Ginger

1:1:1 water soluble fertilizer for
general purpose

Hamburg parsley

Jerusalem artichoke

Jícama

Parsnip

Pignut

Potato

Prairie turnip

Radish

Horseradish

Rutabaga

Salsify

Scorzonera

Sweet Potato

Taro

Turnip

Water chestnut

Yam

Perennial vegetables and herbs (balanced 1:1:1 fertilizer)

Aloe, asparagus, artichokes, chicory, chives, Echinacea, dandelion, fennel, ginseng, Jerusalem artichokes, lavender, lemongrass, lovage, marjoram, mints, sorrel, rosemary, sage, tarragon, thyme, yarrow

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Greening Up Photinia With Iron and Manure

Q. I cleared the rock mulch and would like to know if adding manure to the mix would help the plant. I use Ironite on the plant several times a year.

A. Ironite is okay. Viragrow does not carry it. We carry Kerex, EDDHA and an organic iron spray. The best judge is whether it is working or not and keeps your plants in good color. Otherwise switch to Iron EDDHA.

5 lb. bag of Iron EDDHA from Viragrow
Stable across the entire pH range and alkalinity
Rates are typically in the tbs range per plant per year.

If photinia are in rock mulch the soil pH (alkalinity) will tend to stay above 8. Ironite uses sulfur to help keep the soil pH lower where the ironite is located. Every place else has not changed in pH.

The chemistry of Ironite is focused on is to lower the pH where the iron is applied and this should help the plant use the applied iron better. You should only have to apply the Ironite once in the spring.

The iron EDDHA relies on a different soil chemistry and it doesn’t concern itself with soil pH and changing it. It works at any soil pH, requires about 1 tsp or 1 tbs per plant and applied once a year in the spring.

Adding manure is going to help ….usually…. if the manure is “aged” and the salt content has been lowered through aging. I would NOT add fresh manure. The problem with all manures is the salt content.

You are always better off with compost rather than straight manure. Composts using animal manures usually have lower salt content because of the watering and leaching that goes on during composting. 

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Heavy Metals in Tomatoes Grown in Biosolid Compost

NON-NUTRIENT HEAVY METALS IN TOMATO PLANTS CULTIVATED IN SOIL AMENDED WITH BIOSOLID AND SUGAR-CANE BAGASSE COMPOST1

Authors:	A.A.D. Cintra, M.D. Revoredo, W.J. Melo, L.T. Braz
Keywords:	Lycopersicon esculentum, Cd, Cr, Ni, Pb, compost, waste
DOI:	10.17660/ActaHortic.2004.638.34
Abstract: In this study, non-nutrient heavy metal concentrations (Cd, Cr, Ni and Pb) were measured in composts during the composting process, in compost/Red-yellow Latosol mixtures, and in tomato plants. Composts were produced using sugar-cane bagasse, biosolids and cattle manure in the proportions 75-0-25, 75-12.5-12.5, 75-25-0, 50-50-0 or 0-100-0 (composts with 0, 12.5, 25, 50 and 100% biosolids). The composts were applied to the soil, in 6 treatments and a control (mineral fertilization). Control and the 0% biosolids treatments received inorganic nitrogen and all the treatments received the same amount of N, P and K. Tomato plants were cultivated in 24-L pots, in a green house in Jaboticabal, SP, Brazil. The experiment had a split plot design, in randomized blocks. Cadmium, Cr, Ni and Pb concentrations were determined during the composting process (7, 27, 57, 97 and 127 days after compost mounting), in soil (0 and 164 days after mixing) and plants. The samples were subjected to digestion with HNO3, H2O2 and HCl and the metals were determined by AAS. Negative correlations were observed between Cd, Cr and Pb in the compost and Cd, Cr and Pb plant uptake, as well as Ni in the compost and Ni concentration in the plants. The concentrations of Cd, Cr, Ni and Pb increased during composting. Only Cd levels increased when compost was applied to the soil. The roots accumulated Cr, Ni and Pb, the stems and leaves, Cd and Ni and the fruits did not accumulate any of the metals studied. The composts with biosolids did not increase Cd, Cr, Ni and Pb uptake by plants. https://www.pubhort.org/actahort/books/638/638_34.htm Note: The issue of heavy metal uptake by all vegetables is not answered totally. Stay in touch as more research is posted. Chromium = Cr, Cadmium = Cd, Nickel = Ni which are heavy metals not needed by plants (Non-nutrient)

Municipal Solid Waste and Biosolids Compost for Biological Weed Control

POTENTIAL OF MUNICIPAL SOLID WASTE COMPOST AS A BIOLOGICAL WEED CONTROL

Authors:	Peter J. Stoffella, M. Ozores-Hampton, David T. Patterson
Keywords:	Portulaca oleraceae, Cynodon dactylon, Amaranthus retroflexus
DOI:	10.17660/ActaHortic.2000.533.26
Abstract: A yardwaste/biosolid compost was evaluated for biological weed control properties under greenhouse conditions. Plastic pots (3.87 l), half-filled with Oldsmar fine sand, were sown (100 seeds/pot) with common purslane (Portulaca oleraceae), bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon), and redroot pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus). Seeds were covered with 0, 2.5, 5, or 7.5 cm of compost. Emerged seedlings were counted daily until no further emergence occurred. Significant suppression of emergence occurred in each of the compost treatments as compared to the control for each of the weed species. The 7.5 cm depth of compost treatment had the highest rate of weed suppression. Our data suggest that compost may have potential as a biological weed control method in vegetable crop alleyways.

Biosolids Promote Similar Plant Growth and Quality Responses as Conventional and Slow-release Fertilizers

1. Shaun R. Broderick1 and 
2. Williams B. Evans

1. Mississippi Agriculture and Forestry Experiment Station, Mississippi State University, Truck Crops Branch Experiment Station, 2024 Experiment Station Road, Crystal Springs, MS 39059.

Summary

Biosolids are rich in plant nutrients and are a byproduct of municipal wastewater treatment and those that meet strict government safety standards can be land applied in most agricultural settings except for the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) certified organic production. Across the United States, about 60% of biosolids are land applied, but in Mississippi almost no biosolids are land applied. Our research goal was to compare plant size in southeastern U.S. soils amended with biosolids at rates of 2, 8, 14, and 20 tons/acre in contrast to soils amended with synthetic fertilizers using ‘Floral Lace Cherry’ dianthus (Dianthus chinensis ×barbatus), ‘Dreams Coral Morn’ petunia (Petunia ×hybrida), ‘Pidgeon White’ kale (Brassica oleraceae var. acephala), and ‘Bright Lights’ swiss chard (Beta vulgaris ssp. cicla). To accomplish this, fertilizers and biosolids were applied to prebedded fields in a randomized complete block design with a split-plot arrangement of nutrient treatments. Plant performance data and soil data were taken 43 and 56 days after transplant. Soil pH was reduced and organic matter increased at the highest application rates (14 and 20 tons/acre) of biosolids, and higher levels of phosphorus, zinc, and sulfur were found in these soils. In plant shoots, higher levels of copper, manganese, magnesium, and zinc were found when grown in soils amended with biosolids at a rate of 20 tons/acre compared with plants grown with synthetic fertilizers. Except for swiss chard, no crops fertilized with biosolids exhibited a difference in dry weights (DW) compared with conventional fertilizers. These data demonstrate that soil properties can be improved and similar plant sizes can be achieved through biosolid applications. We conclude that Grade A biosolids produced in Mississippi can be used to supplement synthetic fertilizers for ornamental and vegetable production.

USE OF ORGANIC APPLICATIONS TO INCREASE PRODUCTIVITY OF HIGH DENSITY APPLE ORCHARDS

Authors:	G.H. Neilsen, E.J. Hogue, D. Neilsen, T. Forge
Keywords:	Malus domestica, nutrition, soil amendment, surface mulch, vigor, yield
DOI:	10.17660/ActaHortic.2004.638.46
Abstract: Minimizing use of agrochemicals in fruit growing is a goal of integrated fruit production (IFP). Recently, a range of locally available organic materials have been advocated for possible orchard use. Over the past decade, a series of randomized, replicated field trials were established in grower and research orchards in British Columbia to test the effectiveness of these materials when applied to the surface as mulches or mixed to 30 cm depth as soil amendments. Mulch application most consis¬tently affected tree growth, as indicated in a long term field trial where cumulative yield after 5 crop years was increased by surface application of shredded paper, alfalfa and biosolid mulches. Soil nutrient status and soil biological activity were altered by surface mulching and at another site trees were buffered against moisture stress. Initial growth stimulation from mulching was not sustained at a site where excessive irrigation reduced N availability. Rotovation of a biosolid-amendment to 0.3 m depth prior to planting improved the P-nutrition and initial growth of apple. Amendment treatment did not always affect apple tree performance. Effects were not observed at sites with strong fertigation regimes or fertile soils or when sites had overriding growth limitations unaffected by treatment (e.g. replant disease, K deficiency). https://www.pubhort.org/actahort/books/638/638_46.htm

Virgrow Compost Bulk

Viragrow Compost in Bags



www.Viragrow.com
+1 702  399 3868
info@Viragrow.com

Biosolids Compost Ideal for Establishing Hybrid Bermudagrass

BIOSOLID INCLUSION IN SAND ROOT ZONE MEDIA FOR ESTABLISHMENT OF CV. TIFDWARF BERMUDAGRASS

Authors:	G.H. Snyder, J.L. Cisar
Keywords:	nutrient leaching, nitrogen, phosphorus, Milorganite®
DOI:	10.17660/ActaHortic.2008.783.48
Abstract: Rapid grow-in of sprigged golf course greens reduces both costs associated with construction and time to first play. Two studies were conducted in south Florida to determine whether inclusion of an iron-rich activated sewage sludge biosolid in a United States Golf Association (USGA) root zone green mix would increase the rate of coverage of sprigged ‘Tifdwarf’ bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon × C. transvaalensis). The green was fitted with lysimeters for determining N and P leaching. Treatments included biosolid (Milorganite® 6-2-0) at 0, 3, and 6 kg m-3, with and without a supplement containing P, dolomite, soluble Mg and micronutrients. Biosolid incorporation into a USGA root zone mix improved the rate of coverage of fall and summer sprigged Tifdwarf bermudagrass, whether or not the mix was amended with supplements to provide various nutrient, and pH increase. The supplements primarily increased coverage rate in the absence of biosolid incorporation, but not to the degree that biosolid increased coverage in the absence of supplements. Total N leaching over the course of the two studies was not affected by biosolid. Biosolid did not affect P leaching, but supplements increased it. In both studies, when supplements were used there was a trend for reduced P leaching with increasing rates of biosolid inclusion in the root zone, in spite of the P contained in the biosolid. https://www.pubhort.org/actahort/books/783/783_48.htm

Viragrow Compost Bulk 

Viragrow Compost Bagged

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Using Compost or Composted Soils When Planting Trees

Effect of organic amendment for the construction of favourable urban soils for tree growth

L. Vidal-Beaudet^1,4, G. Galopin² and C. Grosbellet^3
1 Agrocampus Ouest, Centre d’Angers, Unité de Recherche EPHor, Angers, France
² Agrocampus Ouest, Centre d’Angers, UMR IRHS, Angers, France
³ Florentaise, Le Grand Pâtis, Saint Mars du Désert, France
⁴ IRSTV-FR CNRS 2488, Ecole Centrale de Nantes, Nantes, France

SUMMARY 
Ornamental tree planting and establishment in cities is a great challenge because urban soil physical properties are unfavourable to the development of root systems. Our objectives were to measure (i) the effects of organic matter on soil physical properties and tree development, and (ii) the effects of ensuing root development on soil physical properties. Using twenty-four 600-L planted or bare soil containers, we monitored physical properties such as dry bulk density, aggregate stability and near-saturated hydraulic conductivity of our reconstituted soils over a 5.5-year period. A 28-cm thick top layer of sandy loam amended with 40% (v/v) sphagnumpeat or organic composts was laid on top of a 28-cm thick layer of sandy loam. Bare-root Ostrya carpinifolia trees were planted in half of the 24 containers, and we monitored shoot development and root biomass and distribution. After 5.5 years, trunk diameter had increased from 59 mm for the control soil to 66 mm for soil mixed with green waste compost, and 74 mm for soil mixed with co-compost of sewage sludge and wood chips. After 4.5 years, trunk diameter was strongly correlated with the total number of axes (r=0.94) and fine root length density (r=0.98), and was confirmed as a good indicator of tree development. Fine root development increased stable aggregate formation in all treatments as compared to bare soil. After 4.5 years after planting, the tree root system induced by a high organic matter input had significantly improved near-saturated hydraulic conductivity and was fit to support fertile urban soils.

Viragrow's Compost in Bulk

Viragrow's Compost in 1.5 cu ft bags

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Biosolids Compost as Component of Potting Media for Bedding Plants

Authors

Marta S. Zubillaga and Raul S. Lavado

SummarySoilless potting substrates are increasingly used in greenhouse production of bedding plants replacing soil as growth media. These substrates usually consist of a mixture of organic materials like peat or pine bark and inorganic substances such as perlite, vermiculite or sand. Among other possibilities, compost made from municipal and industrial sludges and other solid wastes can effectively replace both peat and soils as they imply little risk to human or to the environment. The objective of this study was to evaluate the effects of different proportions of biosolids compost in substrate mixtures on growth and quality performance for two bedding plants (Petunia hybrida and Vinca sp.). Pots containing different proportions (0 to 100 %) of biosolids compost were used to grow both crops under greenhouse conditions. In plants were determined height, diameter, flower fresh weight, fresh aerial biomass without flowers, leaf area, flower area, number of floral stems, number of flowers, total N, P and K in aerial biomass without flowers. At the end of the experiment particle size distribution, bulk density, degree of compaction, water holding curves, pH, electrical conductivity, total nitrogen and available phosphorus were determined in substrates. Substrates with compost in its composition showed predominance of medium particle distribution. Bulk density and the degree of compaction were higher than the ideal range in treatment 75 to 100 % of compost. The treatments 25 to 75 % compost, were more adequate for normal water supply to roots. Substrates pH varied between 5.4 and 6.0, and the electrical conductivity (1:10) between 0.14 and 0.43 dS m–1. Both plants exhibited adequate vegetative and reproductive parameters in substrates composed of different proportion of compost of biosolids. In Petunia, the differences in plant parameters found among treatments can be mainly attributed to water availability and substrate salt content. Vinca was also related to water availability and substrate pH. Our results indicate that, in horticultural production, peat and soil can be partially replaced by biosolids compost. Considering the different plant parameters, the substrate with 25 % of biosolids compost could be selected among those that produce the best plant quality in both studied species. The substrate made up of only compost of biosolids cannot be considered a commercial alternative.

Use Viragrow's compost.

 Viragrow's Compost in bulk

Viragrow's Compost in 1.5 cu ft bags

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Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Compost’s Role in Landscapes

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Compost’s Role in Landscapes:             Using composts as soil amendments in vegetable gardens has been a no-brainer in the past. We knew it contributed to soil organic...

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Learn the "Browns" and "Greens" of Composting

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Learn the "Browns" and "Greens" of Composting: Q. When composting, we are told to mix “browns” and “greens” together for a good balance of carbon from the “browns” and nitrogen from the ...

Spray for Leaf Footed Plant Bug Now!

Leaf footed plant bug adults and young.

Normally homeowners do not see these insects (LFPB) until after the damage is done. By this time their numbers have exploded and they are everywhere! They will be on fruit trees, nut trees and vegetables.

Look for them overwintering on evergreen plants that they can feed upon during the winter months. LFPG feeds by thrusting its long feeding tube, much like a mosquito, into soft plant parts. They then (again like a mosquito) suck out plant juices.

Get rid of them NOW! They over winter in small numbers as adults fully capable of having young. when they start laying eggs when leaves develop it takes about 10 days for the eggs to hatch into tiny red young clustering and protected by the adults, These young will become adults in about 6 to 8 weeks fully capable of having babies of their own.

We can expect about three generations of these bugs each year and reach their peak numbers about in July. By this time you are fighting a tough battle if you plan to get rid of them.

On young nut trees this feeding can cause the nut to drop or for no seed to form inside the kernel. On young pomegrantes it can cause the fruit to fall. Their feeding can introduce disease problems to the fruit and possibly transmit diseases.

The young cause the most damage due to feeding but they are also the easiest to kill. Use insecticidal soaps on the young but the adults will need something stronger such as the natural pyrethrin products like our Take Down Garden Spray. Spray early in the morning or when the sun is setting.

If you get on them early you will not need the tougher sprays like the conventional insecticides. But if you get to that point then bring out the big guns like Sevin insecticide which we do not carry.


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Control Blight of Tomatoes Now!

Tomato early blight developing on lower leaves. Leaves first yellow, develop spots, wither die and progress through the plant.

Early Blight, sometimes just called Blight, is the most common disease of tomatoes in the arid and desert Southwest of the US. Now is the perfect weather for early blight development. Use disease control chemicals LAST after other options have been exhausted.

For disease control I follow the progression of ....Prevention, then Management, then Organic Disease Prevention and Conventional Disease Control last.

Tomato early blight developing on tomato leaves

I am seeing the yellowing of tomato foliage and the development of dark Brown or grey spots on the leaves. This is followed with leaf death, shriveling, dying and turning crispy.

Grey spots first develop on yellowing leaves

Early blight starts out with the lower leaves and stems of the tomato plant turning yellow or mottled yellow. Soon, these yellowing leaves develop grey spots on the margin or center of the leaves which cause these infected areas to die. These dead spots are now brown and commonly have concentric rings inside these brown spots.

Not all of the spots will make obvious concentric rings. But I search through all of the spots looking for these concentric rings and if I find them I can conclude it is the disease called Early Blight.

Remove infected foliage from the plants. Stop overhead watering.

If this disease is developing on your tomatoes you must get it under control immediately before it spreads.

Do this NOW!

Remove the innoculum. First, using a sharp scissors or pruners clip off all of the yellowing foliage back to the stem and remove it from the garden. This is a source of infection for new growth.

Stop spreading the disease. Second, if you are watering and spraying the foliage with water in any way, STOP DOING THAT! Wet foliage spreads the disease. Always water the soil, not the foliage or leaves. Periodic washing of the foliage is okay but do it only once in a while and make sure it is early enough in the day and the temperatures are hot enough to dry the foliage thoroughly before it cools in the evening.

Neem Oil 70% concentrate
at Viragrow for $22 a pint

Change the environment. Third, if your tomatoes are large and bushy so that sunlight cannot penetrate inside the canopy and air cannot move through the plant to dry the foliage, thin out plant foliage. This decreases the humidity, opens the canopy for more light which strengthens the plant's interior growth. This disease LOVES wet surfaces and high humidity. It stops advancing in strong sunlight, dry conditions and healthy plants that can ward off the disease.

Prevent the disease from advancing. This is where chemicals come into play. First are the organic types.

There are several organic options you can choose from for foliar sprays: Neem oil (yes, it controls some disease as well as some insects), Seaweed Extract, Compost Tea, baking soda in water are a few. If you want to go the organic route and you cannot find rates or methods of application, contact me and I will get them to you.

Viragrow has Neem Oil, Seaweed Extract and Viragrow's own Compost Tea. We have our compost available in brew bags for your own brewing or liquid tea available if you notify us 24 hours in advance. Brew Bags are are $0.50 each and will make one gallon of fresh, sprayable compost tea. Make sure you use compost tea that is fresh for best results.

Cold pressed
Seaweed Extract
at Viragrow $3.80
per pint or $28 per
gallon

Nonorganic chemical control of early blight. Fungicides are used to keep the disease from getting worse. They will not correct the disease which is already present.Nearly any of the fungicides for vegetable gardens will control this disease. Viragrow does not carry any conventional plant disease products but you can pick them up at any local nursery or garden center. Remember, these are not organic control methods and should be a last resort.

Other things you can do:

Use certified organic seed or sterilize the seed you use. This disease can be brought in to your garden from the seeds that were used when your tomatoes were grown. If you are starting your own plants from seed next planting season, place your tomato seeds in 140F water for 25 minutes. Make sure the temperature is no more or less than this. This kills the disease organism which can sometimes be on the seed itself unless the seed is certified organic.

Remove infected vines from the garden. Using infected vines as a mulch or soil amendment will make the disease problem worse. Do not compost infected vines.

Grow your tomatoes, peppers and eggplant in different areas of the garden each year. This is called "rotating" your vegetables. This disease can live in the soil. Moving your vegetables to new locations each year helps to reduce this disease problem. You can grow them in the same spot again in 3 to 4 years.

The document below is an excellent source from e-Extension on organic methods used for controlling early blight in tomato. You can access this document here or below.

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Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Look for Plants Dying Because of Grubs

Xtremehorticulture of the Desert: Look for Plants Dying Because of Grubs: This is the time of year when grubs are feeding on the roots of plants. Many of these types of grubs are the same types that feed in compo...

Fertilize Lawns Before the Heat

At 18-3-5, Viragrow's lawn fertilizer is light in phosphorus (the number '3') which is important for established lawns. This is not a fertilizer for starting a lawn. It is formulated for established turfgrass.

Established lawns, both fescue and bermudagrass, need a high nitrogen fertilizer to darken it and push new growth in the spring. This helps turgrass in spring recovery from the winter months. Very little phosphorus is needed at this stage of a lawn's development. Adding too much phosphorus to lawns create problems. This fertilizer also contains iron for a darker green color.

Split applications are better. It is best to divide lawn fertilizer applications into more frequent applications using less fertilizer at each application.

Mowing is good. Growing and mowing helps to control lawn diseases. Leaf growth is from the bottom up. They youngest and healthiest part of the leaf blade is closest to the soil. The oldest part of the leaf blade is on the top of the blade. When mowing, the older leaf tissue (leaf surfaces in contact with
disease organisms) is removed. Fertilizing regularly helps push new growth and reduce disease problems. Mow fescue no shorter than 1 1/2 inch. As summer temperatures climb, it is best to raise your mowing height to 2 1/2 inch for a deeper root system and more tolerance to heat and drought. Bermudagrass mowing height depends on the cultivar but can range up to 1 inch in height.

Blossom End Rot Common on Tomatoes Now

The blossom end of the tomatoes or pepper fruit,
not the stem end, has a black spot on it

Blossom end rot of tomato and pepper are common problems found on developing fruit in the spring of the year. It can happen any time but it is common now. Cut the black part out and you can still enjoy the fruit but it is ugly to look at.

Blossom end rot is classified as a disease but it is not cause by a disease organism like the blights are. Instead, it is a physiological disorder that is not totally understood but thought to involve the nutrition of the plant and how it is irrigated.

The most common recommendation is to water more consistently; the plant going through periodic dry and wet soil cycles is thought to create this disorder. Applying fertilizers doesn't seem to help.

Irrigating correctly may be true but it is frustrating to have this on your tomato or pepper fruit when you believe you have done everything right.

Here are some other thoughts about this problem and what you can do about it.

Horse bedding like this is $5 for 3  cubic feet
 and goes a long way as a surface mulch
for your vegetables.

Apply a surface mulch around your vegetables. If the problem is your regular watering or the soil fluctuating from dry to wet back and forth, surface mulches help keep the soil from drying out between irrigations thus reducing the fluctuation from dry and wet, back and forth.

One of the best products we have used on our test gardens and raised beds is animal bedding. We have tried using straw in the past but it can be dirty, carry a lot of weed seeds and it really does not decompose very well when it is turned under. We have wood mulch of all types and it is great for landscape and fruit trees but not meant for vegetable gardens unless you want to remove it at the end of the growing season and put it back after you replant.

Apply a wetting agent to the soil. Soils that contain a lot of compost can become hydrophobic or, in other words, they can repel water. If you are watering raised beds by hand and flooding the soil each time you water, the dry soil down a few inches can push the surface water to the edges of the raised bed.

Wetting agent made from cold-pressed
agave extracts called saponins. It retails for $17
for one quart of the concentrate. Use 1 oz in
5 gallons of water.

Surface water will easily flow down the crack between the edge of the raised bed and the soil thus draining the bed without allowing the water to go all the way through the soil.

EZ Wet is a natural plant product derived from agave that is a wetting agent and helps soils that are hydrophobic to rehydrate and accept the water. It has other uses as well and helps foliar applied fertilizers fertilizers to get inside the leaves and work more efficiently. This product is far superior to using liquid dish detergents that contain personal care products such as hand lotions and are scented.

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