Palm Tree Food Formulated for Palms and Nothing Else!

Treat your palms special! Palm Tree Food gives palms many of the nutrients that keep them from yellowing.

This is from the University of Arizona on growing palms in the desert:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021/az1021.html

Fertilization:
Palms look considerably better if they have adequate nutrients. Fertilizing established palms is one of the important ways to keeping them vigorous and attractive. In Arizona landscapes, nitrogen is the most commonly deficient nutrient; when it is lacking, older fronds turn pale green or yellow. Many palms in certain soils also suffer from potassium deficiency (yellowing of older leaves, including midrib). Some trees show Magnesium deficiencies (yellow band on older leaves, with central vein remaining green). In all cases preventative fertilization is best, since the discolored leaves don’t recover.

Lush green growth will result from using a “palm special” fertilizer that contains about 3 times as much nitrogen and potassium as phosphorous (the first and third numbers on the bag are approximately 3 times the middle number), plus Mg and micronutrients. Look for a product that supplies 10-20% N, 5%P, and 10-20% K (roughly equal to N), and also includes 1-3% Mg, .5% Mn , .5% Fe, and S, Zn, Cu, and B (micronutrients that are often lacking). Apply this product to palms after their first establishment summer, following directions on the label for the tree’s size. Spread the product under the canopy (avoiding the area next to the trunk) in mid spring and again in early summer. Water thoroughly to the 2 ft depth.

Arizona's Best Palm Tree Food contains potassium, sulfur, magnesium, iron, zinc and manganese specially formulated for palms. Use 1/2 lb of fertilizer for each inch of trunk diameter. Apply it to the basin and water it in. If you are using drip irrigation, apply the fertilizer 6 inches below the emitters with a shovel and water it in. 1/2 lb of fertilizer is equal to a little over one cup.

Viragrow Delivers!

How to Deep Root Fertilize Your Own Trees and Save Money

Save yourself some money. Deep root fertilize your own trees and shrubs.

Deep root fertilization of trees and shrubs involves applying a tree and shrub fertilizer in multiple locations under tree and shrub canopies. You can do this yourself with a good quality tree and shrub fertilizer and a shovel and knowing where to apply it and how deep.

It's not rocket science
You just have to remember a couple of things:

• apply the fertilizer no deeper than 12 inches
• apply the fertilizer where there is water

Desert Landscapes
Roots of trees and shrubs only grow where there is water. This means you're going to find the highest concentration of roots near drip emitters. The highest number of roots means more uptake of fertilizer by the plant. There is no need to apply fertilizer in dry areas between drip emitters.

Never apply fertilizer closer than 18 inches of the trunk of a tree or shrub.
In desert landscapes, make sure the fertilizer is applied within 18 inches of a drip emitter. The easiest way to figure this out is to run the irrigation system through a cycle and push a shovel into the soil to see if it is moist. Push the shovel into the soil the depth of a shovel, push the shovel forward and drop 1/4  cup of fertilizer in the hole and push it closed with your foot. Do two locations around each emitter. For small trees do this at one emitter.

Lawn Landscapes
Trees and shrubs growing in lawns makes it easier to apply fertilizers. The lawn grasses have improved the soil and it is constantly moist. Fertilizers can be applied anywhere in the lawn under the canopy of the trees and shrubs.

The fertilizer MUST be applied deep enough so it does not damage the lawn but not so deep that it bypasses tree and shrub roots. If the fertilizer is applied near the surface the lawn will be damaged at those spots by the high salt content of the fertilizer. (Fertilizers are salts).

Push the shovel 8 to 12 inches deep into the lawn. Push the shovel forward and drop 1/4 cup of fertilizer behind the shovel and into the hole. Close the hole by pushing the hole closed with your foot.

Space the fertilizer applications in concentric rings around the plant but no closer than 18 inches from the trunk or trunks. There should be a minimum of four application holes for small plants. Larger plants should have more, spaced about four feet apart under the canopy.

Iron sensitve plants? Dont forget to apply iron EDDHA chelate at the same time.

Viragrow Delivers!

Reports Coming in On Cactus Juice Fertilizer

I have to admit, we have never tried this product on cacti and succulents. Several people who bought our Cactus Juice fertilizer reported extremely good results with this product.

It is made my Grow More. Grow More products are very good products. But when we saw it was pushing its high calcium content as a big benefit, I have to admit, we were a bit skeptical because of our soils. Our soils in the Mojave Desert are FILLED with calcium. They are more than filled. They are LOADED! So why add calcium?

Golf course superintendents have added calcium to sand-based greens and tees for many years and saw results. Sand typcially does not supply nutrients. They are nearly inert. So it makes sense that grasses growing on sand greens might run out of calcium during warm and hot weather particularly when leaf clippings are removed and not recycled back into the soil. Greens and tees are bagged and the clippings taken off these surfaces to improve play for golfers.

Corky spot in Keifer pear.

We also see the importance of calcium in older orchards growing apples and pears. A physiological disorder develops in these fruits due to a lack of calcium even when they are growing in calcium laden soils! The reason? Calcium is relatively slow to dissolve into the soil/water that carries nutrients to the plants. Calcium is needed in very high levels by plants, particularly during fruit development.

This disorder is called bitter pit in apples and corky spot in pears. The same disorder is given different names because of the crop. The remedy? Spraying calcium liquid fertilizers on the fruit and leaves during fruit development.

It does not really surprise us that Cactus Juice fertilizer works but we had to wait and hear from you first.

Yes, it works and it is a very good product with solid reviews by growers here in the Mojave Desert.

By the way, we checked the price of it for Amazon Prime members. We compare VERY favorably.

Viragrow Delivers!

Soils Clean and Capture Water

Soil performs physical, biological and chemical cleaning of water

March 20, 2015—In celebration of the International Year of Soil 2015 (IYS), the Soil Science Society of America (SSSA) is coordinating a series of activities throughout to educate the public about the importance of soil. April’s theme is “Soils Clean and Capture Water.” According to IYS monthly leader Gary Pierzynski, “soil is a great water purifier. There are three ways that soil cleans water: physical, chemical and biological.” Here are some facts from Pierzynski, a soil science professor at Kansas State University. Physical: the particles of soil act like a filter. The ideal soil has a distribution of pore sizes so it can filter water, while also allowing the water to pass through the soil. Chemical: soil particles have a negative charge! That means that positive ions like calcium, magnesium and potassium can all be removed from passing water and retained by the soil. This is good, because each of these ions is a nutrient for plants! Some contaminants can be removed by this mechanism as well. Biological: soil is the largest bioreactor on the planet. Within the soil, bacteria and fungi transform and decompose certain chemicals. Soil microbes can change organic forms of nitrogen into ammonium ions—and even into nitrogen gas. They can also decompose some organic pollutants! As part of their celebration of IYS, SSSA is developing a series of twelve 2-minute educational videos. April’s Soils Clean and Capture Water video can be viewed at www.soils.org/iys/monthly-videos. Educational materials can be viewed at www.soils.org/iys by clicking on the April tab. Follow SSSA on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/SSSA.soils, Twitter at SSSA_Soils. SSSA also has a blog, Soils Matter, at http://soilsmatter.wordpress.com/. Additional soils information is on www.soils.org/discover-soils, for teachers at www.soils4teachers.org, and for students through 12th grade, www.soils4kids.org. The Soil Science Society of America (SSSA) is a progressive international scientific society that fosters the transfer of knowledge and practices to sustain global soils. Based in Madison, WI, and founded in 1936, SSSA is the professional home for 6,000+ members and 1,000+ certified professionals dedicated to advancing the field of soil science. The Society provides information about soils in relation to crop production, environmental quality, ecosystem sustainability, bioremediation, waste management, recycling, and wise land use.

Viragrow Delivers!

Options for Fertilizing Vegetables; Organic vs Conventional? Soil vs. Foliar?

Q. I was reading an article about foliar feeding plants,. It was saying to spray tomato plants with phosphorous. I read an organic article in which they use fish-seaweed extract. In your opinion which is better to use? I see that Viragrow sells these products. 

Viragrow's Kelp Meal

A. We want you to decide your options, not us. Yes, we carry Kelp Meal. It is a good product but we are not here to sell you an agenda. We sell both conventional and organic fertilizers - your choice. 

You want to give tomatoes a complete fertilizer at the time of planting. You can use organic sources or conventional fertilizers. The problem with organic sources at the time of planting is that they last so long in the soil. Conventional fertilizers that are quick release will have the nitrogen that stimulates the growth gone basically in 4 to 6 weeks. 

Viragrow's conventional preplant fertilizer
containing nitrogen and phosphorus.

Having the nitrogen disappear in 4 to 6 weeks is a big asset in the promotion of flowering. If this nitrogen is present in high concentrations, it delays flowering and promotes stem and leaf growth. In our climate, we want the tomatoes to get large enough to support fruit and then we want the plant to shift to flowering and fruit production. This is typically in a few weeks. 

For this reason I like conventional fertilizers at the time of planting and then following up with organic sources. Foliar feeding tomatoes with high phosphorus fertilizers is a great idea. You really want to keep that nitrogen away from the plants until they begin to set fruit. Once they begin to set fruit, then you want to feed them with small amounts of fertilizer monthly. 

Viragrow's Organic 
high nitrogen fertilizer

This is particularly true when you start harvesting fruits in June or July. This contradicts the idea to never fertilize vegetables during the heat of summer. I disagree 100%. This is the time that they need small amounts of fertilizer continuously. This fertilizer should be focused on the type of growth you desire. With leafy vegetables that are not expected to flower and produce fruits, high nitrogen fertilizers should be used. 

On vegetables which we expect to flower and fruit, we want to focus on high phosphorus fertilizers and keeping our nitrogen levels much lower. Regarding the third number on the fertilizer, potassium, this number should always be high. Potassium is very important in improving the general overall health of the plant and its improved growth during high temperatures.

At the time of planting I use a very old-fashioned fertilizer, 16-20-0. I also improve my soils with compost at this time. If my soils require a high percentage of compost because they are more difficult to dig and plant, I only add phosphorus as triple super phosphate or bone meal. I like bone meal a lot.

Viragrow's organic high
phosphorus fertilizer.

Regarding foliar feeding, you should have two types of fertilizers for foliar feeding. One should be a high nitrogen and low phosphorus fertilizer and the other should be a high phosphorus and low nitrogen fertilizer. If at all possible, these two fertilizers should both be at least moderate in the amount of potassium it contains. Potassium will not stimulate growth or flower production unless for some reason it is missing. In most gardens soils, it is not.

The high nitrogen fertilizer to be applied as a foliar spray should be used on leafy vegetables and flowering/fruiting vegetables in their very early stages of growth. This fertilizer should be avoided as a foliar spray when they reach about one half of their mature size. At this time you should switch your foliar spray to a high phosphorus spray. 

Foliar sprays should be applied once a month when temperatures are not hot. This can be in the early morning hours or evening hours. I prefer morning hours so that the leaves have a chance to dry before it gets dark. When using foliar sprays you should also be using a wetting agent. 

Viragrowis high
nitrogen water soluble (foliar)
fertilizer for leafy green vegetables.

People can and do use liquid detergents for dishes. I don't like to see people using these because of all the contaminants in these detergents. However, I realize they will continue to use them. It is best to use a wetting agent or surfactant that is specifically designed for foliar applications. There are several available. I really, really like the one I have found at Viragrow called EZ Wet. I like it for a variety of reasons but any of those will work.

One of Viragrow's water soluble high
phosphorus foliar fertilizers.

Bottom line:

• improve your garden soil each time you plant.
• Use a high phosphorus fertilizer mixed with the soil at the time of planting
• apply foliar fertilizers one month after planting
• use high nitrogen fertilizers for leafy green crops monthly
• use high phosphorus fertilizers for flowering and fruiting crops monthly
• never, never forget about potassium and either get it into the soil or apply it with the foliar sprays
• during the heat of the summer, reduce the amount of foliar fertilizer that you apply by half but still apply it monthly
• apply foliar fertilizers during early morning hours during the summer

Viragrow Delivers!

Vegetables, Sprouts and Herbs for Las Vegas and What Fertilizer to Use

Vegetables, Sprouts and Herbs for Las Vegas and What Fertilizer to Use

Do you have some extra seed? Ever consider growing sprouts with them instead of letting them go to waste? The plant parts we eat helps us to determine the type of fertilizer we need to apply. It is up to to you whether you apply fertilizer to the soil or spray it on the foliage. 

High phosphorus fertilizers promote flowering, fruiting, root development, nut and oil production. 

High nitrogen promotes leaf and stem production. 

You should have three fertilizers available for fertilizing just about everything: a high phosphorus fertilizer, high nitrogen fertilizer and a balanced 1:1:1 fertilizer. Granules for soil applications or soluble fertilizers for liquid applications to the plant. 

ALWAYS use a wetting agent like EZ Wet to inprove penetration of the nutrients inside the leaves instead of running off the plant and onto the soil. 

Vegetables eaten as sprouts (No fertilizer needed)

Adzuki

Alfalfa

Beetroot
Broccoli

Chick pea

Cress

Lentil

Mung Beans

Mustard

Onion

Peas

Red Clover

Red Radish

Soybean

Oats

Barley

Rye

Viragrow's 12-0-0 Blood meal
organic fertilizer

Amaranth

Sesame

Sunflower

Vegetable seed that is NOT Solanaceae family

Vegetables eaten as leafy greens (high nitrogen fertilizer)

Amaranth

Arugula

Beet greens

Bok choy

Broccoli Rabe

Brussels sprout

Cabbage

Celery

Ceylon spinach

Chard

Chicory

Chinese cabbage

Chrysanthemum leaves

Collard greens

Corn salad

Viragrow's 21-0-0 ammonium sulfate
conventional nitrogen fertilizer

Cress

Dandelion

Endive

Epazote

Fluted pumpkin

Garden Rocket

Plantain

Kale

Lamb's lettuce

Lettuce

Miner's Lettuce

Mizuna

Mustard

Napa cabbage

New Zealand Spinach

Orache

Pak choy

Pea leaves

Poke

Radicchio

Radish tops

Sea kale

Viragrow's 0-15-0 Bone meal
high phosphorus organic fertilizer

Sorrel

Spinach

Summer purslane

Sweet potato

Swiss chard

Turnip greens

Water spinach

Winter purslane

Yarrow

Vegetables eaten for botanical fruits (high phosphorus fertilizer)

Bell pepper

Bitter melon

Cucumber

Eggplant

Hot pepper

Pumpkin

Squash

Sweet corn

Sweet pepper

Tomatillo 

Tomato

West Indian gherkin

Zucchini

Viragrow's 0-45-0 triple super phosphate
high phosphorus conventional fertilizer

Vegetables eaten for edible flowers and flower buds (high phosphorus fertilizer)

Artichoke

Broccoli

 Cauliflower

Squash blossoms

Zucchini flowers

Vegetables eaten for edible pods (Legumes) (low nitrogen fertilizer)

American groundnut

Black-eyed pea

Chickpea

Common bean

Fava bean

Garbanzo

Green bean

Indian pea

Lentil

Lima Bean

Viragrow's high nitrogen - high phosphorus
preplant, conventional fertilizer

Mung bean

Okra

Pea

Peanut

Pigeon pea

Runner bean

Snap pea

Snow pea

Soybean

Tepary bean

Velvet bean

Winged bean 

Yardlong bean

Vegetables eaten for Bulb and stem (high nitrogen fertilizer)

Cardoon

Celeriac

Celery

Elephant Garlic

Fennel

Viragrow's high phosphorus water soluble
foliar fertilizer.

Garlic

Kohlrabi

Leek

Nopal

Onion

Spring Onion/Scallion

Shallot

Vegetables eaten for Root and tuberous (high phosphorus fertilizer)

Bamboo shoot

Beetroot

Burdock

Canna

Carrot

Cassava

Chinese artichoke

Daikon

Earthnut pea

Elephant Foot yam

Ginger

1:1:1 water soluble fertilizer for
general purpose

Hamburg parsley

Jerusalem artichoke

Jícama

Parsnip

Pignut

Potato

Prairie turnip

Radish

Horseradish

Rutabaga

Salsify

Scorzonera

Sweet Potato

Taro

Turnip

Water chestnut

Yam

Perennial vegetables and herbs (balanced 1:1:1 fertilizer)

Aloe, asparagus, artichokes, chicory, chives, Echinacea, dandelion, fennel, ginseng, Jerusalem artichokes, lavender, lemongrass, lovage, marjoram, mints, sorrel, rosemary, sage, tarragon, thyme, yarrow

Viragrow Delivers!

Greening Up Photinia With Iron and Manure

Q. I cleared the rock mulch and would like to know if adding manure to the mix would help the plant. I use Ironite on the plant several times a year.

A. Ironite is okay. Viragrow does not carry it. We carry Kerex, EDDHA and an organic iron spray. The best judge is whether it is working or not and keeps your plants in good color. Otherwise switch to Iron EDDHA.

5 lb. bag of Iron EDDHA from Viragrow
Stable across the entire pH range and alkalinity
Rates are typically in the tbs range per plant per year.

If photinia are in rock mulch the soil pH (alkalinity) will tend to stay above 8. Ironite uses sulfur to help keep the soil pH lower where the ironite is located. Every place else has not changed in pH.

The chemistry of Ironite is focused on is to lower the pH where the iron is applied and this should help the plant use the applied iron better. You should only have to apply the Ironite once in the spring.

The iron EDDHA relies on a different soil chemistry and it doesn’t concern itself with soil pH and changing it. It works at any soil pH, requires about 1 tsp or 1 tbs per plant and applied once a year in the spring.

Adding manure is going to help ….usually…. if the manure is “aged” and the salt content has been lowered through aging. I would NOT add fresh manure. The problem with all manures is the salt content.

You are always better off with compost rather than straight manure. Composts using animal manures usually have lower salt content because of the watering and leaching that goes on during composting. 

Viragrow Delivers!

Heavy Metals in Tomatoes Grown in Biosolid Compost

NON-NUTRIENT HEAVY METALS IN TOMATO PLANTS CULTIVATED IN SOIL AMENDED WITH BIOSOLID AND SUGAR-CANE BAGASSE COMPOST1

Authors:	A.A.D. Cintra, M.D. Revoredo, W.J. Melo, L.T. Braz
Keywords:	Lycopersicon esculentum, Cd, Cr, Ni, Pb, compost, waste
DOI:	10.17660/ActaHortic.2004.638.34
Abstract: In this study, non-nutrient heavy metal concentrations (Cd, Cr, Ni and Pb) were measured in composts during the composting process, in compost/Red-yellow Latosol mixtures, and in tomato plants. Composts were produced using sugar-cane bagasse, biosolids and cattle manure in the proportions 75-0-25, 75-12.5-12.5, 75-25-0, 50-50-0 or 0-100-0 (composts with 0, 12.5, 25, 50 and 100% biosolids). The composts were applied to the soil, in 6 treatments and a control (mineral fertilization). Control and the 0% biosolids treatments received inorganic nitrogen and all the treatments received the same amount of N, P and K. Tomato plants were cultivated in 24-L pots, in a green house in Jaboticabal, SP, Brazil. The experiment had a split plot design, in randomized blocks. Cadmium, Cr, Ni and Pb concentrations were determined during the composting process (7, 27, 57, 97 and 127 days after compost mounting), in soil (0 and 164 days after mixing) and plants. The samples were subjected to digestion with HNO3, H2O2 and HCl and the metals were determined by AAS. Negative correlations were observed between Cd, Cr and Pb in the compost and Cd, Cr and Pb plant uptake, as well as Ni in the compost and Ni concentration in the plants. The concentrations of Cd, Cr, Ni and Pb increased during composting. Only Cd levels increased when compost was applied to the soil. The roots accumulated Cr, Ni and Pb, the stems and leaves, Cd and Ni and the fruits did not accumulate any of the metals studied. The composts with biosolids did not increase Cd, Cr, Ni and Pb uptake by plants. https://www.pubhort.org/actahort/books/638/638_34.htm Note: The issue of heavy metal uptake by all vegetables is not answered totally. Stay in touch as more research is posted. Chromium = Cr, Cadmium = Cd, Nickel = Ni which are heavy metals not needed by plants (Non-nutrient)

Municipal Solid Waste and Biosolids Compost for Biological Weed Control

POTENTIAL OF MUNICIPAL SOLID WASTE COMPOST AS A BIOLOGICAL WEED CONTROL

Authors:	Peter J. Stoffella, M. Ozores-Hampton, David T. Patterson
Keywords:	Portulaca oleraceae, Cynodon dactylon, Amaranthus retroflexus
DOI:	10.17660/ActaHortic.2000.533.26
Abstract: A yardwaste/biosolid compost was evaluated for biological weed control properties under greenhouse conditions. Plastic pots (3.87 l), half-filled with Oldsmar fine sand, were sown (100 seeds/pot) with common purslane (Portulaca oleraceae), bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon), and redroot pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus). Seeds were covered with 0, 2.5, 5, or 7.5 cm of compost. Emerged seedlings were counted daily until no further emergence occurred. Significant suppression of emergence occurred in each of the compost treatments as compared to the control for each of the weed species. The 7.5 cm depth of compost treatment had the highest rate of weed suppression. Our data suggest that compost may have potential as a biological weed control method in vegetable crop alleyways.

Biosolids Promote Similar Plant Growth and Quality Responses as Conventional and Slow-release Fertilizers

1. Shaun R. Broderick1 and 
2. Williams B. Evans

1. Mississippi Agriculture and Forestry Experiment Station, Mississippi State University, Truck Crops Branch Experiment Station, 2024 Experiment Station Road, Crystal Springs, MS 39059.

Summary

Biosolids are rich in plant nutrients and are a byproduct of municipal wastewater treatment and those that meet strict government safety standards can be land applied in most agricultural settings except for the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) certified organic production. Across the United States, about 60% of biosolids are land applied, but in Mississippi almost no biosolids are land applied. Our research goal was to compare plant size in southeastern U.S. soils amended with biosolids at rates of 2, 8, 14, and 20 tons/acre in contrast to soils amended with synthetic fertilizers using ‘Floral Lace Cherry’ dianthus (Dianthus chinensis ×barbatus), ‘Dreams Coral Morn’ petunia (Petunia ×hybrida), ‘Pidgeon White’ kale (Brassica oleraceae var. acephala), and ‘Bright Lights’ swiss chard (Beta vulgaris ssp. cicla). To accomplish this, fertilizers and biosolids were applied to prebedded fields in a randomized complete block design with a split-plot arrangement of nutrient treatments. Plant performance data and soil data were taken 43 and 56 days after transplant. Soil pH was reduced and organic matter increased at the highest application rates (14 and 20 tons/acre) of biosolids, and higher levels of phosphorus, zinc, and sulfur were found in these soils. In plant shoots, higher levels of copper, manganese, magnesium, and zinc were found when grown in soils amended with biosolids at a rate of 20 tons/acre compared with plants grown with synthetic fertilizers. Except for swiss chard, no crops fertilized with biosolids exhibited a difference in dry weights (DW) compared with conventional fertilizers. These data demonstrate that soil properties can be improved and similar plant sizes can be achieved through biosolid applications. We conclude that Grade A biosolids produced in Mississippi can be used to supplement synthetic fertilizers for ornamental and vegetable production.

USE OF ORGANIC APPLICATIONS TO INCREASE PRODUCTIVITY OF HIGH DENSITY APPLE ORCHARDS

Authors:	G.H. Neilsen, E.J. Hogue, D. Neilsen, T. Forge
Keywords:	Malus domestica, nutrition, soil amendment, surface mulch, vigor, yield
DOI:	10.17660/ActaHortic.2004.638.46
Abstract: Minimizing use of agrochemicals in fruit growing is a goal of integrated fruit production (IFP). Recently, a range of locally available organic materials have been advocated for possible orchard use. Over the past decade, a series of randomized, replicated field trials were established in grower and research orchards in British Columbia to test the effectiveness of these materials when applied to the surface as mulches or mixed to 30 cm depth as soil amendments. Mulch application most consis¬tently affected tree growth, as indicated in a long term field trial where cumulative yield after 5 crop years was increased by surface application of shredded paper, alfalfa and biosolid mulches. Soil nutrient status and soil biological activity were altered by surface mulching and at another site trees were buffered against moisture stress. Initial growth stimulation from mulching was not sustained at a site where excessive irrigation reduced N availability. Rotovation of a biosolid-amendment to 0.3 m depth prior to planting improved the P-nutrition and initial growth of apple. Amendment treatment did not always affect apple tree performance. Effects were not observed at sites with strong fertigation regimes or fertile soils or when sites had overriding growth limitations unaffected by treatment (e.g. replant disease, K deficiency). https://www.pubhort.org/actahort/books/638/638_46.htm

Virgrow Compost Bulk

Viragrow Compost in Bags



www.Viragrow.com
+1 702  399 3868
info@Viragrow.com

Biosolids Compost Ideal for Establishing Hybrid Bermudagrass

BIOSOLID INCLUSION IN SAND ROOT ZONE MEDIA FOR ESTABLISHMENT OF CV. TIFDWARF BERMUDAGRASS

Authors:	G.H. Snyder, J.L. Cisar
Keywords:	nutrient leaching, nitrogen, phosphorus, Milorganite®
DOI:	10.17660/ActaHortic.2008.783.48
Abstract: Rapid grow-in of sprigged golf course greens reduces both costs associated with construction and time to first play. Two studies were conducted in south Florida to determine whether inclusion of an iron-rich activated sewage sludge biosolid in a United States Golf Association (USGA) root zone green mix would increase the rate of coverage of sprigged ‘Tifdwarf’ bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon × C. transvaalensis). The green was fitted with lysimeters for determining N and P leaching. Treatments included biosolid (Milorganite® 6-2-0) at 0, 3, and 6 kg m-3, with and without a supplement containing P, dolomite, soluble Mg and micronutrients. Biosolid incorporation into a USGA root zone mix improved the rate of coverage of fall and summer sprigged Tifdwarf bermudagrass, whether or not the mix was amended with supplements to provide various nutrient, and pH increase. The supplements primarily increased coverage rate in the absence of biosolid incorporation, but not to the degree that biosolid increased coverage in the absence of supplements. Total N leaching over the course of the two studies was not affected by biosolid. Biosolid did not affect P leaching, but supplements increased it. In both studies, when supplements were used there was a trend for reduced P leaching with increasing rates of biosolid inclusion in the root zone, in spite of the P contained in the biosolid. https://www.pubhort.org/actahort/books/783/783_48.htm

Viragrow Compost Bulk 

Viragrow Compost Bagged

+1 702 399 3868

info@Viragrow.com

Using Compost or Composted Soils When Planting Trees

Effect of organic amendment for the construction of favourable urban soils for tree growth

L. Vidal-Beaudet^1,4, G. Galopin² and C. Grosbellet^3
1 Agrocampus Ouest, Centre d’Angers, Unité de Recherche EPHor, Angers, France
² Agrocampus Ouest, Centre d’Angers, UMR IRHS, Angers, France
³ Florentaise, Le Grand Pâtis, Saint Mars du Désert, France
⁴ IRSTV-FR CNRS 2488, Ecole Centrale de Nantes, Nantes, France

SUMMARY 
Ornamental tree planting and establishment in cities is a great challenge because urban soil physical properties are unfavourable to the development of root systems. Our objectives were to measure (i) the effects of organic matter on soil physical properties and tree development, and (ii) the effects of ensuing root development on soil physical properties. Using twenty-four 600-L planted or bare soil containers, we monitored physical properties such as dry bulk density, aggregate stability and near-saturated hydraulic conductivity of our reconstituted soils over a 5.5-year period. A 28-cm thick top layer of sandy loam amended with 40% (v/v) sphagnumpeat or organic composts was laid on top of a 28-cm thick layer of sandy loam. Bare-root Ostrya carpinifolia trees were planted in half of the 24 containers, and we monitored shoot development and root biomass and distribution. After 5.5 years, trunk diameter had increased from 59 mm for the control soil to 66 mm for soil mixed with green waste compost, and 74 mm for soil mixed with co-compost of sewage sludge and wood chips. After 4.5 years, trunk diameter was strongly correlated with the total number of axes (r=0.94) and fine root length density (r=0.98), and was confirmed as a good indicator of tree development. Fine root development increased stable aggregate formation in all treatments as compared to bare soil. After 4.5 years after planting, the tree root system induced by a high organic matter input had significantly improved near-saturated hydraulic conductivity and was fit to support fertile urban soils.

Viragrow's Compost in Bulk

Viragrow's Compost in 1.5 cu ft bags

=1 702 399 3868

info@Viragrow.com

Biosolids Compost as Component of Potting Media for Bedding Plants

Authors

Marta S. Zubillaga and Raul S. Lavado

SummarySoilless potting substrates are increasingly used in greenhouse production of bedding plants replacing soil as growth media. These substrates usually consist of a mixture of organic materials like peat or pine bark and inorganic substances such as perlite, vermiculite or sand. Among other possibilities, compost made from municipal and industrial sludges and other solid wastes can effectively replace both peat and soils as they imply little risk to human or to the environment. The objective of this study was to evaluate the effects of different proportions of biosolids compost in substrate mixtures on growth and quality performance for two bedding plants (Petunia hybrida and Vinca sp.). Pots containing different proportions (0 to 100 %) of biosolids compost were used to grow both crops under greenhouse conditions. In plants were determined height, diameter, flower fresh weight, fresh aerial biomass without flowers, leaf area, flower area, number of floral stems, number of flowers, total N, P and K in aerial biomass without flowers. At the end of the experiment particle size distribution, bulk density, degree of compaction, water holding curves, pH, electrical conductivity, total nitrogen and available phosphorus were determined in substrates. Substrates with compost in its composition showed predominance of medium particle distribution. Bulk density and the degree of compaction were higher than the ideal range in treatment 75 to 100 % of compost. The treatments 25 to 75 % compost, were more adequate for normal water supply to roots. Substrates pH varied between 5.4 and 6.0, and the electrical conductivity (1:10) between 0.14 and 0.43 dS m–1. Both plants exhibited adequate vegetative and reproductive parameters in substrates composed of different proportion of compost of biosolids. In Petunia, the differences in plant parameters found among treatments can be mainly attributed to water availability and substrate salt content. Vinca was also related to water availability and substrate pH. Our results indicate that, in horticultural production, peat and soil can be partially replaced by biosolids compost. Considering the different plant parameters, the substrate with 25 % of biosolids compost could be selected among those that produce the best plant quality in both studied species. The substrate made up of only compost of biosolids cannot be considered a commercial alternative.

Use Viragrow's compost.

 Viragrow's Compost in bulk

Viragrow's Compost in 1.5 cu ft bags

=1 702 399 3868

info@Viragrow.com