Monday, January 13, 2020

Make Your Own Raised Beds for Vegetables

You can make your own raised beds. It is not hard to do.


Using Viragrow garden soil eliminates the rocks that can cause problems for carrots and other root crops. The garden soil is clean, beautiful and very easy to work with. Construct them so you can reach into the bed without stepping on the soil. Four feet is probably the widest you want to make them.
Raised beds with wood side walls. Protect the wood with oils or even plastic. The bottom should drain into the soil beneath it.
Wooden side walls need to be protected. Doug fir works great and is resistant to rotting and does not have some of the natural oils and resins that redwood and cedar contain. They will need to be replaced over time but you can protect the side walls by oiling them down or stapling plastic sheeting to the inside. The bottoms must be open to the soil beneath it and there should NOT be plastic under the soil. No rocks are necessary. The bottom of the bed is rock free and the Viragrow garden soil is in direct contact with the soil. Fill the raised bed to the brim as it will settle a couple of inches with time and use.
Corner braces
A high phosphorus fertilizer is a good idea when planting. You can use bone meal, triple super phosphate or even ammonium phosphate as a pre-plant fertilizer raked into the soil prior to planting. We have organic and conventional fertilizers.

Seed or plant transplants directly into Viragrow garden soil at the proper time of year. If you want a copy of our vegetable planting calendar email us at info@viragrow.com and we will send it to you. It was put together for 36 degrees north latitude and about a 2000 foot elevation.

Sidedress vegetables (apply a small trickly of fertilizer two inches from the row of plants) and water it in once a month. Use Blood Meal or a high nitrogen fertilizer like ammonium sulfate.
 Growing in a good garden soil, preparing adequately before planting, planting at the right time of year and fertilizing regularly as it grows and as you harvest will go a long way to having a successful raised garden. Viragrow Delivers!
Viragrow demonstration raised beds at their facility on 1100 E. Dehli St. North Las Vegas, Nevada

Soil Amendment Test Plots Completed

We have been hearing alot about rock dust. We want to know if we should put some into one of our soil mixes. So we went to the experts.


Soil amendments are an interesting group of products. There are amendments that add microorganisms, micronutrients, help change the structure, improve drainage, improve water holding, improve fertilizer retention.... you name it and there are products that claim to make soil better. Now there are rock dusts!


Recently there has been interest in some naturally forming amendments from crushed and screened rock. Zeolites have probably been around the longest. Zeolites is a collective term for a bunch of different minerals that have very small pores that can hold water. These pores make many of them fairly light in weight. The pores also help them retain water. Many are used for things like kitty litter and oil spills. More on zeolites

Another amendment has the trade name of Azomite. We always have to be careful with claims made on a label unless it is subjected to some regulatory agency. For instance, fertilizers have to adhere to state fertilizer laws. What is claimed as fertilizer must actually be contained in the bag. Agencies like Weights and Measures checks to make sure fertilizers are registered in the state and periodically they are checked to make sure you get what they claim on the bag. This is not true of soil amendments.

A third one we found recently is an interesting product called Kelzyme. The manufacturers claim it to be "mineralized sea kelp". It is mined from an open pit mine in Nevada near Winnemucca. It also has a lot of minerals in it with quite a few claims made from the manufacturer.

So what do you believe? Are they going to work? Before Viragrow gets involved we are watching a test plot using these three products very closely. The plot was constructed at the UNCE orchard in North Las Vegas in March of 2014. Two inches of compost was applied to the plots and tilled in. 1 1/2 pound of phosphorus was applied to the growing site as a pre-plant.

Next the plots were constructed and replicated in raised beds on both sides of the plot. All three products were applied to separate plots at a rate equivalent to the rate suggested on the Azomite bag and incorporated into the soil. Drip irrigation will be put back on the plots for vegetables. Vegetables and herbs will be planted as transplants and the products will be added to the transplant soil and all of it watered in. After that all vegetables will be drip irrigated through the remainder of the study.

Let's see what happens! Viragrow is always looking for a good soil amendment for its specialty composts. If it works, we will use it! Viragrow Delivers!

Vegetable Test Plots Established to Compare Different 'Rock Dusts' at UNCE Orchard

Test plots were under construction in April, 2014, to compare the production of vegetables using soil additives Azomite, Kelzyme and Zeolite. Some have termed these rock dust.


Azomite is a mineral soil additive mined in central Utah and being promoted for improving vegetable production as well as other uses Wikipedia on Azomite.

Adding compost to the demonstration plots and forming the beds

Kelzyme, according to their website (Kelzyme website) is a "100% organic fosslized sea kelp" with similar attributes to Azomite.

Zeolites (Wikipedia on Zeolite) are a wide range of minerals. The one being tested is a Clinoptilolite zeolite mined near Death Valley. Clinoptilolite has some unique properties and has a long history in water purification, livestock supplements and horticulture and many other uses.

Planting beds being prepared for vegetable trials using Azomite, Kelzyme and Zeolite as soil additives.
The demonstration trials were amended with compost and a starter fertilizer as we would with any vegetable plot and the soil additives were soil incorporated as well as incorporated in the planting hole at the time of transplanting. Rates are determined by the manufacturers recommendations on the label. In the case of zeolite it is added at rates similar to the other two products since a label is not available.

Vegetables being used in the demonstration are tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, basil and other common vegetables planted as transplants or seed. Plots will be irrigated with drip using Netafim with 1gph emitters at 12 inch spacings. Shade will be removed by pruning the palm trees or treatments will avoid shady areas.

Linn Mills RJ Article: Using Compost to Overcome Some of the Worst Soils by Linn Mills

This is an article appearing in the Las Vegas Review Journal by Linn Mills on January 11, 2014. Linn was interviewing Viragrow's CFO, Sal Ramirez. You can read it online at the LVRJ or read a copy of it below.



Overcoming some of worst soils in U.S.

By LINN MILLS
LAS VEGAS REVIEW-JOURNAL
Most of us want to ignore dealing with soils. I recall teaching three classes on vegetables, fruit trees and soils. The vegetable and fruit classes were packed, but the soil class was almost empty. Most of the audience questions were soil related problems.

I asked Sal Ramirez of ViraGrow, a soil manufacturing outlet, and he went right to the problem — soils.
■ Las Vegas soils are some of the worst in the country.
■ We only get 4 inches of rain a year, never building up any organic matter in our soils. That is why we must add organic matter or compost to our soils every time we replant.
■ Our soils are compacted so hardly anything grows in them.
■ The winds also draw moisture out of the soil leaving the salts behind. They are devastating to plants, especially vegetables.
Ramirez says the answer to the above problems is adding compost to our soils. Note these reasons:
■ Compost acts like a big sponge. When you irrigate, the sponge absorbs large amounts of water to store for future plant use and the excess drains away. This opens up air spaces so your plants function properly.
■ Compost has within it many essential nutrients your plants need and it freely gives them to your plants as needed.
■ This miracle wonder warms soils during the winter and cools them during the summer.
■ This magical product increases the microorganisms (miracle workers) in the soil. These miracle workers continue to break down any raw materials in the compost.
■ Compost acts as a buffer. If you overfertilize your plants, it deactivates the excess to prevent damaging your crops.
Ramirez prescribes the following for those wanting to garden in our tough soils:
■ Spread up to 8 inches of compost over garden area.
■ To this compost, spread the following organic fertilizers over it: Blood meal introduces nitrogen essential to get plants started and feeds your miracle organisms. Bone meal brings phosphorous into the mix to develop roots, flowers and fruit product. Kelp becomes a great source of micronutrients. Soil sulfur changes the soil pH into the neutral range so our microorganisms can freely mine for those essential micronutrients and iron chelates (Kerex) frees up irons for easier plant extraction in our soils. 

When using these fertilizers, follow label directions for the amount to add.
■ Now till these ingredients into the top 6 to 8 inches of your garden.
■ When using a rototiller, run it slow to thoroughly blend these ingredients into the soil. Men usually run a tiller full throttle and it destroys your soil’s structure.
■ Now give the garden area a good irrigation to activate what’s about to take place in your soil.

Ramirez uses a chemical fertilizer such as 6-20-20 to blend in. “My reasoning for this particular fertilizer is it brings the right proportions of fertilizer in for my plant needs. Its nitrogen gets my plants up and started. Its high phosphorous stimulate roots, increases flower and fruit production on crops such as tomatoes.” Potassium improves the quality of his veggies, plus makes the plant more tolerant to the hot summer ahead.

You might want manufactured compost that really puts a touch of class on growing vegetables.
■ Build a raised bed to contain the compost.
■ Make the bed at least 6 inches deep by placing wood, bricks, cement blocks or whatever to act as walls.
■ Some gardeners make higher walls to sit on while working the garden.
■ At this point add a commercially prepared soil like those produced at ViraGrow. It’s made up of 75 percent compost and 25 percent sand. He also blends in kelp meal, seaweed extract, humic acid, slow-release organic nitrogen for crops such as vegetables. He also makes other blends for specific conditions.

Here is a hot tip Ramirez wants to pass along to those who have used manufactured soils such as his for a couple of seasons and here’s why:

“I find our extensive summer heat cooks many of the microorganisms, so I suggest replenishing them. I recommend spreading a light application of aged manure over the garden area to reintroduce them into the soil. Salts have already been leached so don’t worry about the manure. Then till the manure into the top 3 inches of the soil.”

Try Viragrow composts and soil amendments. Viragrow Delivers!

Some Recommended Vegetable Varieties for Fall and Winter Planting in the Desert

Here is a recommended vegetable variety list for the Mojave Desert. Some varieties perform better than others under desert conditions. These are vegetables to be planted in in the fall months from seed and in some cases transplants. Onions transplants of course are planted in the spring so this is by seed.


Recommended varieties of vegetables for fall months. Please add to this list in your comments if you have actually grown a variety you liked, not one you read about and it was under desert conditions. Thanks!

Viragrow Delivers!

Asian Greens
Tatsoi
Bak Choy
Pac Choy

Beans, bush
Contender
Top Crop
Blue Lake
Venture
Royalty Purple Pod

Beans, pole
Kentucky Wonder
Blue Lake
Kentucky Lake

Beets - don’t forget to use the beet leaves
Detroit Dark Red
Detroit Supreme
Golden
Chioggia
Bull’s Blood
Red Ace
Warrior
Red Cloud

Broccoli
Atlantic
Pacman
Green Comet
Green Goliath
Premium Crop

Cauliflower
Amazing

Carrots
Scarlet Nantes
Parisien
Sweetness
Tendersweet
Kuroda

Chard
Pink Flamingo
Rainbow
Barese

Greens
Vaites (collards)

Kale
Nero of Toscano (Dinosaur)
Tronchuda
Reo Russian

Onions, bulbs
Candy
Big Daddy
Red Candy Apple
Texas Super Sweet
Sterling

Onions, bunching
Tokyo Long White

Onion, specialty
Red of Florence
Tropea Longa
Bianca di Maggio

Peas, Bush
Lincoln

Peas, sugar snap
Cascadia
Oregon Sugar Pod
Sugar Snap

Radishes
Easter Egg
French Breakfast
Purple Run
White Icicle
Cherry Belle
Chinese Watermelon

Spinach
Bloomsdale
Melody
Olympia


Biosolid-free Compost Available from Viragrow

Viragrow received a number of requests to carry a compost that was totally free of biosolids. We found one and brought 100 yd.³ in for you. Before we could advertise it, it sold out. We expect another delivery in the next week or two.

Viragrow Biosolid Free (and Vegan) Compost

If you are interested in this product, give us a call and make sure we still have it! Visit our website at www.Viragrow.com or call during office hours, Monday through Friday, 600 am to 330 pm. Saturdays, 700 am to 100 pm.

Viragrow Delivers!

Smell the Difference: Viragrow's "Organic" Compost Made from the Forest

Smell the difference!


Viragrow is bringing in manure and biosolid-free compost, made entirely from forest products which have never been sprayed with any pesticides, from northern Utah. This compost has been treated with microorganisms at the composting facility that help speed up the decomposition process of this natural, woodchip-based product.
Viragrow's Organic Compost
Once it arrives in Las Vegas Viragrow fortifies this compost with enough nitrogen to bring the carbon to nitrogen ratio (C:N) into an acceptable range for all landscape plants as well as vegetables. This is about as close as we can get to a truly "organic"compost. No worries about biosolids, animal manure products, commercial kitchen waste, heavy metals, pharmaceuticals and personal care products. If we could follow the life history of all those forest trees used to make this compost, we could apply to USDA for organic certification! But that paper trail is impossible so this is as close as we could get. That's what we named it, Viragrow's Organic Compost. We hope our customers will appreciate our efforts to bring you what you wanted. We could smell the difference and it put a smile on our faces!

Viragrow Delivers!

Featured Article: Good Irrigation Managers Save Water

This will appear in Southwest Trees and Turf in November, 2014.


Avoid Mayhem with Good Irrigation Managers
Bob Morris, Consultant for Viragrow, Inc.

Determining the best irrigation schedule for a mixture of landscape plants is difficult enough but when salinity is involved, either in the soil or in the irrigation water, it complicates matters. Let’s cover some irrigation do’s and don’ts and see how salinity might affect the way we irrigate.
Except for shallow rooted plants like lawns, annual flowers and vegetables in raised beds, daily irrigations should be avoided any time of the year. Many turfgrasses and annuals have root systems that extend into the soil 12 inches or less. During the heat of the summer and under desert conditions some of these plants may require daily irrigations.
The concept of irrigating nondesert landscape plants is focused on wetting the root system to its entire depth, allowing the soil to drain and re-wetting the soil again when half of this water has been used by the plant or evaporated.
So we can see that the volume of water applied in a single application is directly related to the depth of the root systems of plants. When designing a landscape irrigation system we try, to the best of our abilities, to put plants with similar rooting depths on the same valve or station.
More often than not we are handed an irrigation system with a mixture of plants that have a variety of rooting depths. When deciding an irrigation schedule for a single valve or station we generally have two options; set the number of minutes based on the average rooting depth of all the plants or let the plants with deepest root systems dictate the number of minutes of station runtime.
Hunter irrigation controller or time clock
This decision depends on whether to conserve water or minimize landscape problems. When we decide to under irrigate some plants so the majority receive the correct amount of water, we may see some plant damage. If the under irrigation is not severe, we may see the slowing of plant growth, a decline in density due to leaf drop, leaf tip or burning of leaf margins. When plants are severely under irrigated then we begin to see branch die back and in some cases death.
Under irrigating, or applying less water than dictated by a plants rooting depth, can also impact safety issues. What happens if we under-irrigate large trees such as pines which have shallow

roots to take up water but require deeper roots to anchor it in the soil?
Wind blowover to trees due to shallow roots.
Current irrigation technology is based upon time management and varying how water is applied to plants. This technology varies the amount of water applied to plants by changing the number of minutes valves are open, increasing or decreasing the points of water emission or changing the rate of water applied at the point of emission. This translates to increasing or decreasing the number of drip emitters, bubblers, nozzles or spray heads or substituting old points of emission for new ones that have different rates of application.
Making these changes to an irrigation system that was designed by a professional and focused on the uniform application of water, more than likely will make the system less uniform and less efficient. This will most likely result in substantially higher water usage. These types of alterations to professionally designed systems must be done with care.
Salt deposits on pine needles from overhead irrigation using reuse water
There are some obvious cases where changes must be made. For example, changes must be made when some plants are receiving excessive amounts of water or not enough water while others on the same valve appear to be watered adequately.
As plants get bigger, they need more water. When plants get bigger, their tops get bigger as well as their root system. Increasing plant size requires the application of higher volumes of water. Increased plant size dictates that the area irrigated under the plant also needs to be increased. Logic tells us we need to increase the amount of water by applying it to a larger area.
Just because a few plants on an irrigation valve have grown larger seldom requires increasing the number of minutes of runtime. Other plants on the same circuit that received adequate amounts of water would then be over-irrigated for the sake of a few.
Of course increasing the number of minutes is the easiest solution to the problem but is it the right one? The quick fix of bumping up the number of minutes creates no new revenue for the landscape maintenance company and is likely a poor solution to an irrigation problem. Is it possible that a discussion of the problem with the owner or supervisor might result in a better solution to the problem for everyone involved? Might this discussion generate revenue, or even a better looking landscape, and also result in water conservation?
The second decision in scheduling irrigations is determining when to apply water. This is a very different question than determining how much water to apply. Unlike the first question, the answer to the second question is implemented solely by determining when to turn the valve on or off.
Research has demonstrated that no irrigation controller, no matter how “smart” it is, can
Watchdog weather station used for monitoring current and historical weather
substitute for a knowledgeable irrigation manager. The principal reason is that knowledgeable irrigation managers focus on their irrigation schedules ahead of the irrigation curve, not behind it. Most “smart” irrigation controllers are irrigating behind the irrigation curve or relying on historical information to predict the future.
Knowing when to turn an irrigation valve on is half art and half science. The “science” part of it can be handled by many good irrigation controllers. The “art” part of it is staying aware of your irrigation system, how it’s operating, monitoring the landscape and paying close attention to current as well as projected future weather conditions, particularly during the summer months.
You can’t do a good job irrigating sitting behind a desk. Knowledgeable irrigation managers seldom if ever take vacations during the heat of the summer. That is their busiest time. This is the time they are most aware of their landscape environment, weather environment and irrigation “system” environment.
Three primary weather factors good irrigation managers are constantly monitoring, whether they realize it or not, current or potential changes in the temperature, wind and sunlight intensity.
In most environments, and in particular desert environments, our everyday irrigation predictions are based on normal, seasonal temperatures, normal wind speed and a clear sky. The single factor most likely create mayhem in a landscape during the summer months is wind. The second is above normal spikes in temperature. The absolute worst scenario is a spike in daytime temperature accompanied with strong winds and a clear sky. A good irrigation manager stays ahead of the curve by applying water in anticipation of mayhem, not during mayhem.
As if this was not difficult enough, salts and salinity add a dimension to the irrigation dilemma which test the abilities of the best irrigation managers. Salts are salts. Without getting too technical, any time a substance is added to water and dissolves you have the potential for increasing salinity. Any time you add something to the irrigation water or the soil you may affect salinity.
Two types of plant damage result from excess salts or salinity in the soil or irrigation water; the type of salt may be directly toxic to the plant (such is the case with plain old table salt which contains two very toxic chemicals to plants; sodium and chlorine or chlorides) and competition with the plant for water.
Any type of salt, table salt or even fertilizers, will dissolve in water adding to a general increase in salinity. Slow release fertilizers are less of a problem in this regard than fast or quick release fertilizers. When salts of any kind are added to the soil, these salts compete with the plant for soil moisture.
In other words the salinity of the soil “pulls” or holds on to water, making water less available to the plant. This means that when salinity is a problem, we need to irrigate more frequently to reduce plant stress. This is particularly true in summer months.

Two basic concepts when irrigating to avoid salinity problems are dilution and flushing. Keep the salts diluted and add enough water to flush these salts below the rootzone. This requires that the soil drains adequately. 

Viragrow Delivers!

Rosemary Oil Effective against Spider Mites

This is an interesting piece of research done in British Columbia using Rosemary oil against spider mites.The two spotted spider mite is a very common pest of ornamentals like Italian Cypress and tomatoes.



No Access
Researchers in British Columbia found that pure Rosemary oil and a rosemary oil-based pesticide was totally effective (100% mortality) against the two spotted spider mite, a common pest of many ornamentals, fruit trees and vegetables. Not only did it kill two spotted spider mites, Rosemary oil repels spider mites and makes it less likely for them to deposit their eggs on plants sprayed with this oil. It was demonstrated that a predatory mite, one that attacks two spotted spider mites, is more tolerant of rosemary oil. 
Spider mite, webbing and leaf miner damage on tomato
The big advantages to the use of rosemary oil is that fruit that was just sprayed can be harvested immediately with no waiting time. This is not true of conventional pesticides where there is a waiting time between the application of the pesticide and before you can pick the fruit. Laboratory bioassay results indicated that pure rosemary oil caused complete mortality of spider mites at concentrations that are not phytotoxic to the host plant. Moreover, rosemary oil and rosemary oil-based pesticides are nonpersistent in the environment

Journal of Economic Entomology 99(6):2015-2023. 2006 
doi: http://dx.doi.org/10.1603/0022-0493-99.6.2015

Viragrow Delivers!

Mulch Lying Against the Trunk Can Lead to Collar Rot

Q. I've had a problem with a cape honeysuckle. I have two plants that are trellised and were thriving (~5 feet tall) until one of them began to wilt last Tuesday. By Saturday the leaves had all dried up and fallen off. I'm pretty sure it's a goner. There was no sign of insect or wind damage, and it had plenty of water. And the other plant is still doing fine. They had the same water schedule, same sun, same soil.

Crown rot or collar rot of honeysuckle after mulch has been removed from the stem. Notice the dark color like a watermark on the stem.
The only thing different with the dead plant was that I covered that side of the yard with a large 2-3" decorative redwood mulch two weeks ago. Could something leeching out of the mulch kill my honeysuckle? There's a red discoloration around the base of the stem (see attached picture), that makes me suspect this.

I'd like to get to the bottom of what happened before I invest in a replacement, especially given how quickly the plant died.

A. This sudden death sounds more like a problem of having wet mulch in contact with the stems. Wood mulches are great and have a lot of potential benefit to plants particularly honeysuckle. 

But, if the mulch is placed around the plant, and the plant is fairly young, and the mulch stays wet, it can cause the trunk of many plants to become infected with one of the soil borne diseases. This will rot the trunk of these plants and basically strangle the plant of water. We sometimes refer to this as collar or crown rotand it happens a lot with woody plants. 

We usually see this most often when woody plants are planted too deep in their planting hole and soil is in contact with the trunk. This is the reason plants must be planted at the correct depth. I have seen this also when established woody plants have soil mounded up around the trunk. When the soil stays wet, the trunk rots. We see it also with woody mulches in fruit trees

When woody mulches are in contact with the trunk of young trees the trees may develop collar or crown rot. We need to keep mulch away from the trunks of woody plants at least six inches to prevent this from happening. Use less wood mulch in the areas close to their trunks.Viragrow Delivers!

What is Rock Dust?

In 2014 rock dust created a lot of excitement in the gardening community. 

Rock dusts Kelzyme, Zeolite and Azomite before testing.
YouTube video on rock dust
Background on Rock Dust

Raised vegetable beds were prepared and three rock dusts
were compared against the addition of compost only.,
Viragrow took a close look at three different rock dusts in a demonstration trial in North Las Vegas. The trial was overseen by University volunteer Michael Barrett at the University of Nevada Center for Horticulture and Urban Water Conservation. We did not have the funding to conduct a full-scale research trial but we relied on gardeners who volunteer at this facility to give us their feedback.

We compared three rock dusts to vegetable raised beds that had fresh compost added.  The plots were referred to only by letter; A, B, C, D. Only Viragrow knew which plot was which. Viragrow purposely stayed out of the trial so that we would have no influence over the results.

Master Gardeners and volunteers watched the plots closely and were very interested in the performance of vegetables growing in these plots. The conclusions were pretty obvious: adding any type of rock dust improved vegetable production and performance over the addition of just compost to the raised beds.

With these results in hand, Viragrow decided to include rock dust in its new compost formulation called RejuvenateSee Rejuvinate here. Scroll to the bottom of page linked above.

Viragrow is currently carrying two different rock dusts; Kelzyme and Zeolite. Azomite performed equally as well but our decision was based on performance as well as our cost from the manufacturer.Both of these products are available in small or large quantities directly from Viragrow. For more information on these products visit our website using the two links below.

Visit Viragrow's Kelzyme and Zeolite through this link.

Viragrow Hours

Viragrow is open Mondays thru Fridays from 600 am to 330 pm. Saturdays are from 700 am until 100 pm.

We are located in North Las Vegas, Nevada, not far from I-15 and Cheyenne.

We are closed on major holidays.

Call 702-399-3868 to double check.

Cost of Viragrow Compost?

Compost is made from recycled waste, correct? So why is it so expensive? The cost of the simplest compost is not very expensive if you just consider the ingredients. Cost of a commercial compost is tied up in extra ingredients, mixing, space in the yard and transportation.
Viragrow's biosolid free compost.

Cost of Ingredients

several types of compost are available for purchase locally and from distant places like Malibu, California a you. The cost of compost can range from $0 if you make it yourself to over $200 per cubic yard for some very high-end composts. The least expensive compost are made from waste products but when amendments are added like peat moss, worm castings, perlite, seaweed extracts for example then the price increases because of the costs of these expensive amendments.
You can buy starter fertilizers but it is not needed for Viragrow soil mixes for at least one growing season.

Another ingredient needed for making compost is water. Our compost is made in California where watering prices are a bit more reasonable. It's included in the cost of a cubic yard of compost.

All Viragrow soil mixes are tested before sold to the public.

Mixing Costs

Planting directly into compost is not wise. Compost is an ingredient when making soil mixes. The most compost we use when making a soil mix is one third of the total mix. The simplest soil mix we have is the Garden Soil Mix and it is one third compost and two thirds sand. When its sold from Viragrow the cost of mixing is part of the price.

Viragrow soil mixes are used in raised beds and containers for growing vegetables.

Space for Storage

Compost made in California is stored at the Viragrow yard in North Las Vegas. In the spring and early, compost turnover is quite rapid. But we also need space for our mulch which moves out of the yard quite rapidly in the Fall.This ends up as an average cost per square yard of storage space. Of course Viragrow must rent this space and that is all wrapped up into its final price.
Composts and soil mixes fill the yard at Viragrow.

Transportation

Getting compost made in California at a licensed composting facility and trucking it to Las Vegas is a major cost. The soil mixes can be mixed here but the compost cannot be made here. The ingredients for making compost are available in California; the wood from sawmills used as a bulking agent for the compost comes from Northern California, Oregon and Washington. Then this compost is made and hauled from California to our yard in Las Vegas in large bulk deliveries and finally to your site in smaller truck loads to your home.
Deliveries of compost are made from Southern California to the Viragrow yard in North Las Vegas.


Where to Get Compost?

Q. I have an 8x8 raised bed garden 3 feet deep.  About 3 years ago I bought soil from Viragrow here in North Las Vegas.  Have also added rock dust bought from Viragrow.  Last year I added 5 bags of cow manure from Star Nursery.  I would like to get the soil tested.  Is there anyone in the Las Vegas/North Las Vegas area that does this.   Also, where can I go for good compost?  Any info would be helpful.  Thanks so much 

A. We don't want to sound overconfident, but Viragrow has the best compost in Las Vegas. Unlike other compost that you can buy, Viragrow contains a lot of plant nutrients so the application of extra fertilizer is not needed. Typically all the fertilizer that needs to be applied is a small amount of high nitrogen fertilizer after about six months of producing vegetables and herbs in this soil mix. High nitrogen fertilizers can be in the form of mineral fertilizer like 21-0-0 or blood meal at around 12-0-0. 

Forget the cow manure. There are too many problems using it to cover here. I know it's cheap but "you get what you pay for". If you and a 1 inch layer of compost to this raised bed and rototill or double dig it into the existing soil you won't need anything added. You won't need a soil test unless you have growing problems. All the nutrients that plants need are contained in the compost.

You can get bags of compost from viragrow for $4.25 per bag. For your raised bed about three bags of compost are needed. For $15 you have everything you need for growing great vegetables and herbs and rebuilding the soil without mineral fertilizers.

Where Can I Get Soil Tested?

Farmers test their soils every year. They must know how much fertilizer and soil amendments they should add to a soil so they don't waste money. Homeowners can get by testing their soil every three to five years and making those necessary adjustments directed by a soil test.

One soil testing laboratory we use quite often is in Modesto California called A and L Soils Testing Laboratory. I general soil test will cost about $75. Be sure to have them analyze the macronutrients as well as the micronutrients including boron. In some desert soils boron levels can be excessively high and damage plants.

Soil tests can be difficult to interpret. Viragrow can help interpret those results for a small fee. If you are using a new soil mix from Viragrow then testing won't be required for at least three years after your purchase. However, adding a 1 inch layer of compost from Viragrow and mixing into the soil every 2 to 3 years will keep your raised beds and vegetable growing areas in tip top production.

Mix Soils Together or Get Rid of Soil Interfaces

Q. I dug an area about  5 feet by 8 feet at around 12” deep. I removed all the bigger rocks and mixed remaining soil at around 70% native dirt to 30% soil pro compost and put it back in area that I dug. Native soil has lots of clay because it is was very hard to dig. 

Fill is used in many subdivisions. Sometimes this fill contains alot of rocks of different sizes. Landscape fill is extremely variable in quality in Las Vegas.

Because most of the soil that I removed contained very large rocks, I lost a lot of volume. I need to raised level of this area by about 5” to be in line with surrounded soil. Therefore I need to raise the level by approximately 40 sq ft x 5” high which I am reading to be about 3/4 of a yard of topsoil.

I still have about 1/2 a yard of Rejuvenate soil that I purchased from Viragrow. I also have about 1/2 ton of washed concrete sand left over in another pile that I was planning on discarding. 

What is your opinion on  using the Rejuvenate garden soil to raise the level on top of the mix of native soil and compost? Or even using the washed concrete sand (paver level sand) and mix it with native soils to give it volume? I am not sure exactly what I am going to be planting. Can be a deciduous fruit trees or some bushes . I just wanted to get the ground nice ready for future planting and removing the large rocks that I mostly have in backyard.

A. You can mix the two together with no problem. I am looking for two possible problems when reading what you are planning to do. It's best to never use reject sand. True reject sand may have a lot of very small particles that can slow down or plug drainage. The second is creating an interface problem between pure sand and the soil mix. For this reason, either mix the two ingredients together or layer them. If you decide to layer them, be careful of creating an interface between the two layers which can affect drainage. To get around this interface problem, mix the two layers together where they come together and then finish filling the hole.


A.